20th July 2023, 7.00 AM to 7.00 PM
Spangmik - Maan - Merak - Chushul - Kaksang La top - Mahe - Sumdo - Puga - Tso Kar
Pangong Tso was a little underwhelming for me. Perhaps the weather was to blame but another reason for that could be the limited time we had for exploring the place. Most of our time had been spent on the road, with only the afternoon available at any place for exploration. Though darkness set in late in these places, the heat in the afternoons was a put-off. The next morning we were usually on the road early, even before breakfast. Since it was our first trip to Ladakh, we were in a 'tourist' mentality. Next time, with the experience gained on this trip, we'd have a base to plan things better.
Anyway, we started the day without breakfast and got on the road by 7.00 AM. It would be half a day's drive not counting the stops we'd invariably make along the way. With such awesome, landscape a few stops could be forgiven! For me, it was the beginning of my real adventure. In the first leg, my intention was to pay my respects to Maitreya Buddha. The part of the trip that had attracted me to Ladakh began in Pangong Tso. The truly wild side of this high altitude desert was in the few places we'd cover over the next two days.
The Route
Now, if you ask any tour operator about travelling to Tso Kar or Tso Moriri from Pangong, they will unhesitatingly suggest that you take the route over the Chang La Pass towards Leh. Then, about 30 kilometres from Leh, at Karu, turn left on the Manali highway towards Upshi. After Upshi, the highway goes through Rumtse, crosses Taglang La and reaches Debring. A few kilometres from Debring the NH 3; the right fork is the road to Manali and the left goes on to Tso Kar and Tso Moriri. It is close to 250 kilometres and will take you about six hours to cover not counting the stoppages.
The alternate route, which I had selected, (and was also favoured by Tsewangji, but not suggested by our travel operators despite many requests), is shorter by almost 75 kilometres. It goes east from Spangmik through Maan, Merak, Chushul, Kaksang La, Mahe and Sumdo. The official line is that the road is not good an not more than a dirt track but on our journey almost 85-90% was asphalted. The last bit from Sumdo till Puga was undergoing expansion. We took this route and passed through some incredibly desolate landscape. I could only think of three reasons why tour operators avoid suggesting this route.
1) First of all, there are no significant food stops along the way. We had planned to stop at Chushul for breakfast and nearly didn't get any as there was only one place open. Likewise, fuel for the cars is a problem. The last petroleum outlet is in Tangtse, on the route towards Leh. Once you cross that, the next one is in Karu, about 85 kilometres away across the Chang La pass. There are no outlets anywhere on this route. Unless your driver has filled up at Tangtse or is carrying extra fuel, in jerry cans like Tsewangji, he will be unwilling to risk the drive through Chushul.
2) The second reason is probably due to the fact that there is a very low traffic flow along this road the and the mobile network is patchy or non-existent. While staying in Spangmik, the Jio tower was next to our resort but we couldn't get through because we fell inside the 'shadow' area of the tower! In the event that your car breaks down or runs out of fuel (unlikely), help will not come very quickly!
3) Another reason that comes to mind is that the tour operator would prefer a longer route as the taxi charges will be higher. Tsewangji, being the owner and driver, was more concerned about the wear and tear that his car would have to suffer. At the time we were in Ladakh, the route through Chang La was being widened and considerable delays were there on that road.
Tsewangji concurred with me and we were off along the road through Chushul. It turned out to be a great route to drive on and I would have regretted it if we had to go through Tangtse and Karu. As if to compensate for the previous day, Pangong Tso showed us flashes of its beauty as we drove along the road that skirted its southern edge.
The old road, or rather, the dirt track, could be seen from the new road, along the water's edge. Soon we left the lake behind us and were going along at a comfortable speed on a well maintained road. So much for dirt tracks!
Along the way a few brief stops were made. One at Merak as I had spied some birds on the water's edge, that I was seeing for the first time. A family of Crested grebes were foraging in the water.
There were gulls and plovers on the sandy shores.
Further on we encountered the ubiquitous kijangs, the Tibetan wild ass.
An hour and a half later we were in Chushul searching for breakfast. It would be the only chance we'd get on this route. Lunch wasn't an issue as we would reach Tso Kar by then. As we drove in we couldn't find any open eateries. Luckily for us, Lungta Restaurant was serving bread and eggs. For four famished people, it was manna from heaven! Though we had biscuits, nuts and snacks in the car, we had not bothered to carry fresh fruits. A lesson learnt in Ladakh. Stock up on fruits and energy bars. You never know when they will come in handy.
The next stage of our drive would take us through a high pass to Mahe, around 75 kilometres away. It would be another desolate stretch passing through some of the most beautiful landscapes. On this road are two passes. The first one, formerly known as Thato La or Nurpa La at an altitude of around 4800 metres is on top of the series of hairpin curves.
However, after the new road was laid, is had lost its pre-eminence. There is (or was) another one named Hor La pass (4966 metres) further down the road near the next lake, Yaya Tso. Unfortunately I didn't see any marker for this one either. After the road reaches the top we pass along the side of another glacier fed lake, the Mirpal Tso. Since it was quite far at the bottom of the hill the idea of exploring had to be given up.
As we left Mirpal Tso behind we saw another herd of Tibetan wild ass trotting towards the lake. Perhaps for drink after a heavy breakfast on the sparse vegetation on the slopes around the lake.
The road now goes over gentle slopes, climbing further, till we reach Kaksang La the highest point on this road at 5436 metres. There was a light drizzle as we reached Kaksang La Top. I got out there despite the weather as I spied a couple of birds that were new to me. It was already biting cold, the sun having disappeared behind the grey clouds.
Of Hor La pass, there was no signboard or we missed it! Kakasang La had usurped the honour of being the highest point on the Chushul- Mahe road. On the slopes below the road onto our right, as we were descending, were some dirt tracks; perhaps the old road. We were probably above the old Hor La pass as we could see Yaya Tso lake below us.
At Mahe, the road again reaches the banks of the Indus river. We crossed the river after about a two and a half kilometres to get on the road to Sumdo. The skies weren't looking very encouraging.
As we reached Sumdo the drops of rain falling on the windshield became steadily heavier till we were literally driving through a deluge. Any idea of stopping along the way or exploring Tso Kar had to be abandoned.
Finally, little before 2.00 PM we reached Druk Resort in Thukje, our place to stay in Tso Kar. There was no let up in the rain when we checked in. Lunch was ordered and while waiting for it to be ready, we retired to our room. A small affair with little furniture and no running hot water. In any case, the cold outside would discourage anyone considering even a hot shower!
It would be too much to expect anything more in a tiny hamlet sitting at an altitude of 4530 metres and far away from civilization! It was bitterly cold with the wind adding to our misery. Outside our window, the weather looked bleak. Nobody in their right senses would step out; not even the birds I had come looking for.
After a hot lunch, mercifully very edible, we decided to hit the bed. We told Tsewangji that we'd go exploring after 5.00 PM if the rain gave way to blue skies. He just smiled and nodded. He had probably been told something like this before. When we finally decided to get out from under the quilts, it was past 6.00 PM and very dark. There was a persistent light drizzle too. It seemed that the weather was going to foil all my plans of chasing my target species, the black necked crane.
After an early dinner we turned in, praying for better weather when we woke up in the morning.
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