From here on, the posts that follow will take you through our travel through Ladakh. During your travel with us, I will try to give you some information about places we went to, routes taken and lessons we learnt about travel in such a remote place.
July 16th 2023, 8.45 AM - Forenoon in Leh
We touched down in Kushok Bakula Rinpoche Airport at half past eight in the morning. For an airport with such a grand name, it is rather nondescript, In fact, one of the smallest I've seen. The terminal had seen better days and seemed to be desperate need of repair. I decided against using the toilets after seeing the expressions of people coming out after using the facility.
The airport sits in a valley flanked by mountains on all sides and the Indus river on the south-western end, and is the highest commercial airport in India at an elevation of 3250 metres above MSL. It is in the midst of defence establishments and served as an exclusive defence airport before being opened for civilian use. The single runway, lying east-west makes the view from an approaching aircraft nothing short of spectacular. This is one airport that is bereft of greenery, as most of Ladakh is, which we discovered very soon.
The old terminal is pretty ramshackle with a very small area for arriving passengers. The sole baggage conveyor belt looks like it would break down any minute. The airport has wooden pillars much like the ones in the monasteries. I wasn't keen on fishing out my phone to take a few photos after the experience with airport security in Delhi. The new terminal is coming up next to the old one and once finished should be a world class facility considering that Ladakh is now a hot tourist destination.
We picked up our bags from the creaking conveyor belt which seemed to sigh in relief as each heavy bag came off, and moved to the exit gate. Travel in Ladakh is entirely dependent of taxis, but more about that in a subsequent post. We were to rendezvous with a Mr. Tsewang Gurmet, our taxi driver cum guide for the rest of our stay. Tsewangji was at the gate with my wife's name on a pink chart paper. The taxi's are not allowed to come to the entry or exit gates so they either drop you off or pick you up at the parking lot. If you don't want to damage your bag's wheels, load them onto an airport luggage trolley. Even if you leave it at the parking lot it will come back to the airport with passengers flying out of Leh!
Tsewangji dropped us off a to our hotel, the Padma Ladakh, driving through some very narrow roads. Leh town is essentially a large village that has grown with time. Haphazard construction with no planning ensured that buildings jostled for space on either side of the narrow roads. There was hardly room for a car to pass another if it came from the opposite side. It is boom time in Ladakh after it was split from the state of Jammu & Kashmir. As a place dependent on tourist economy, every narrow gully seemed to have three or four hotels. Very few had their own parking spaces. In fact, even houses seemed to lack space for parking and many vehicles were just parked on the road. The only roads that were wide enough was the Srinagar -Leh highway and the Manali - Leh highway, both of which skirted the town.
His Holiness, the Dalai Lama was in town and had prayer meetings every day from around 8.00 am to 10.00 AM. So the day started in earnest only after the meeting had concluded. Our room wasn't ready as we had arrived early, so I went for my breakfast in the restaurant. I was truly famished as I hadn't had anything on the flights. The hotel serves a very nice breakfast and I tucked into it.
Once our room was ready and we were checked in the manager gave us 'strict instructions' to go to sleep. He told us that we were to move slowly, even going to the bathroom or getting off the bed. Since the oxygen levels were low at this altitude, it would leave us gasping for breathe and in the worst case scenario, would end up with Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). In any case all of us were exhausted after a sleepless night, we promptly settled down to rest. We had instructed Tsewangji to bring his car at half past four for a brief trip into town.
Acclimatization
This would be a good place to introduce the word, 'acclimatization'. It is a word you will hear used very frequently when you travel to high altitude places, especially in the Himalayas and any place where the elevation is more than 2000 - 2500 metres. It is the process by which your body adjusts to the environmental conditions of the place you are in. In the Himalayas, you are at an elevation where the atmospheric is far lower than at sea level. The air is thinner, which means that the molecules of gases that make up the atmosphere is 'spread out' and so less oxygen is available for use by your body's organs. You will also have a tendency to get dehydrated faster.
Your body compensates by increasing the heart and respiratory rate. You find that you breathe more rapidly that it appears you are gasping. Even little exertion can make you feel fatigued easily. This is the immediate effect of low oxygen air. Changes start happening in your blood too. Hemoglobin levels start going up slowly as your body starts producing more red blood cells to increase the oxygen carrying capacity of your blood. This change in your body doesn't happen overnight so you have to give it time to adjust itself. If you don't give your body time to get attuned to the new situation you will be inviting trouble.
At the lower end of the scale is Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), characterized by any or all of the following symptoms.
- Nausea and giddiness
- Headache
- Breathlessness
- Fatigue
- Loss of appetite
- Sleep disturbances
1. Ascend slowly or stay put to acclimatise
2. Avoid exertion
3. Hydrate yourself by drinking lots of water
4. Avoid cigarettes and alcohol
5. Sleep well
6. Pay attention to symptoms of AMS
7. Preventive measures before setting off
8. Expose your ears
Meanwhile let us sleep a while and get ready to go visit the local market in the evening.....
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