Ladakh & Life Lessons - Part 4: Around Leh & Transportation

 16th July 2023, 5.00 PM - Leh

Recovering ourselves from the lack of sleep, we were woken up by the insistently ringing phone in our room. The restaurant was enquiring about our lunch. It so happens that most, if not all, guests who have acclimatised to Ladakh get out early and would return only for dinner. The restaurant therefore did not have a running lunch everyday. It had to be pre-ordered if you were planning to lunch in the hotel instead of going out. Obviously, we weren't going out so we ordered lunch and waited. Since everything is made fresh, on our orders, it is better to order early. After lunch and siesta we were ready to test ourselves in Ladakh's harsh conditions. 

It had been raining and there was a light drizzle when we stepped out. Tsewangji and his car was waiting for us at sharp 4.30 PM. It was parked a little further up the slope and I thought I was huffing and puffing my way. Maybe, I forgot the 'slow-motion' rule because of the drizzle, but I made it to the car without anything untoward happening. 

The first stop would be at Leh Palace. This 17th century palace was built by Sengge Namgyal and is supposed to be based on the design of the Potala Palace in Lhasa, seen in the photo below (Pic Courtesy: Tibettravelexpert.com), but somehow, I failed to see the resemblance. 

It appears to have a chequered history and fell to invaders, and was subsequently abandoned. The ASI have now renovated the palace and has a museum inside detailing its history. Like all old buildings and monasteries the palace is on a hill overlooking the town. There are nine stories which is not immediately apparent as the entrance is somewhere midway. As the building hugs the slope all the floors are not easily discernible.

Once inside, you have to watch the roof. There a good chance you will get a few knocks as you duck into doors or while traversing stairs. We didn't spend much time inside as climbing even short flights of stairs was leaving me a little breathless. I'm not sure if it was the devil of AMS sitting on my shoulder, I was extremely conscious of every breath I took. Not wanting to make things too complicated, we decided to move on. 

Our next stop was the Shanti Stupa, a relatively recent monument, that serves as a symbol of peace. Construction began in 1983 but was formally inaugurated by the 14th Dalai Lama in 1991. It is said to hold relics of Buddha at its base but it probably means relics related to Buddhism. Set on a hillock in Changspa just outside Leh and facing the Leh Palace across the town, it offers spectacular views of the surrounding areas. The best time to visit is said to be early in the morning or late evening. Unfortunately for us the plan of shooting the Milky Way from Shanti Stupa was washed out by rain and the overcast skies. 

The light drizzle that started was a signal for us to leave this peaceful place and descend to a more chaotic location, the Leh Market! Tsewangji dropped us off at the entrance to the market and said he would park further down the road. We were to call him once we were through. Unfortunately, none of our phones were working because of some peculiar features of the mobile network in Ladakh. (More about that in a separate post). So he gave us one of his connections to call him. 

The Leh Market is the centre of the town and is a place that is one of the places you can walk down to as most hotels are around this place. If you have acclimatized sufficiently a leisurely walk from your hotel will get you to this colourful place in 5 to 10 minutes, depending how far you hotel is. Most shops are targeted at tourists and sell handicrafts, dry fruits and the Pashmina wool products. Most of your ATMs and mobile stores are in and around this market. 

While walking, keep a watch for sleeping dogs. They are everywhere; cute fluffy ones sleeping on the pavements and outside shops. I am a dog friendly person but I was warned that the dogs here were not  the usual friendly types so I maintained a healthy distance.

 As Ladakh was a part of the erstwhile Kashmir state, most merchants seem to be Kashmiri. Hone up your bargaining skills if you are a shopaholic. It is out of bounds for traffic and you'll have to use your legs. Since traffic wasn't an issue the market was crowded with tourists and even we had to jostle for space on the pavements with hawkers. 

Days end late and it is quite bright even at half past seven. On the day we were in the market it was getting dark due to the clouds. An occasional drop of rain reminded us that it was monsoon spilling over into Ladakh. 

Even on the pavements you will find cheap Chinese toys, vegetables and dry fruits. Since this was our first day we only looked around. We weren't very keen to buy stuff and have to lug it around for the next six days. In any case, we'd be flying out of Leh so the shopping could be kept for the last day. 

As darkness set in, the Leh Palace that loomed over the town looked even more impressive. Few of the windows were lit up. Perhaps, living quarters of the present incumbent. 

We started back as a light drizzle was falling. It was almost 8.00 PM so it would make sense to eat dinner and turn in early. 

Transportation In Ladakh

When going to Ladakh, unless you are going in your own vehicle, it is better to keep in mind the following facts.

1. Public transport is minimum or non-existent. There are no auto-rickshaws or buses that service the town. Taxis are your only mode of transport. The rates are fixed by the Ladakh Taxi Union. (Click the link for the union site)
2. You can hire two-wheelers in Leh either for local day trips or for the entire duration of your stay. You can get a variety of two wheelers, but the most popular for long distance biking are the Enfield models. The scooters and sub 150 cc bikes are suitable for local running around. This blog will give you some information but you may have to check latest for rates.
3. Hiring a taxi can be an expensive affair. If you are only two persons, there are many places, especially restaurants, where people 'pin' their plans and offer to share the taxi. It works out less expensive that way. 
4. If you are hiring a taxi for your entire trip, ensure that the vehicle makes a provision for oxygen cylinder to be carried. You never know when it will come in handy.
5. Usually, the driver comes with his kit and will take care of himself, (even sleeps in the car), but there is no harm in asking him to join you for food. 
6. Bus transport is also few and hard to get. They don't run every day as a one way trip will take an entire day and the bus will return only the next day. If you have a lot of time in your hands, a bus trip can be interesting! Just be warned, the trip could be cancelled if sufficient passengers are not available. Devil On Wheels (Click this link for a comprehensive information on public transport in Ladakh)
7. If you are planning a self drive trip ensure that you are totally prepared. Roads are non-existent in many places so are petrol stations. If you are travelling by motorcycles it is better to travel in a group with a back up vehicle carrying a mechanic, spare parts, puncture kits, spare wheels, and your luggage. If you are in a car, similar preparation is needed. It will be better to be a part of a convoy going in the same direction. Most importantly, ensure that whichever vehicle you pick up is in peak condition. Since petrol pumps are very few and far in between, outside of Leh; and sometimes may not have stock, it is always better to carry extra fuel in you vehicle for emergencies.

I will tell you about the mobile networks in Ladakh in a subsequent post. 

The link to the previous post is  here