Unbiased review of the Duster - Part 3: Unfinished business in Anamudi Shola

This post should have come under Mango Musings but I've placed it here because it qualifies as Woodcrawling! To see the earlier post of the 'Unbiased review of the Duster' see the post in Mango Musings

A little more than three and a half months ago we had discovered a lovely little place during our trip to Munnar.  (Link here).

For two people who had been used to sitting in a safari jeep and going around the same tracks in the hope of catching the eye of a predator it was a new experience.Here was a scenario where we were in the wilderness we loved so much, but instead of getting driven we were driving ourselves. That meant we were in control of where we stopped, how long we stopped and what we could do. That evening we spent in Maryoor had left an indelible impression on both of us. We had be limited by our transport and the opinions of a few people who probably had some ulterior motives to prevent us from going ahead. Despite encouragement from some unexpected quarters we weren't sure of testing the terrain in a hatchback with less than ideal ground clearance.

1st, November 2012, I took delivery of our Duster. It was a vehicle that had appeared in the horizon earlier in the year and we had booked in July. It had been a long wait but we had to ourselves a gentle beast to carry us to place we had never been to before. I had tested it out in and around Palakkad (link here) but there was nothing here like the Anamudi shola.

So on the 18th, November we were off to see how the Duster would handle the shola. There was a full complement of five passengers and a boot full of photography gear and food. We left at 6.30 AM because we had to be back by nightfall. I hate driving after sunset these days, and since our route was to take us through an area I had not traveled in I could not really predict how long I had to be at the wheel.

The sun was still hiding when we crossed Pollachi (45 kms) onto Udumalapet (75 kms). The wind turbines stood like sentinels in the maize fields and the road was tempting. I'm a sedate driver normally but I succumbed to temptation and let the Renault K9 engine have some fun. The needle was nudging 130 kph when I ran out of road for speed test, besides I thought the people in the back seat were making noises, so I eased off. The memories of chasing a Santro on NH 47 weren't too pleasant. The Duster was rock steady at that speed. Absolutely no feeling of the wheels going out of control anytime or the engine straining.

We stopped for breakfast at the Chinnar checkpost (105 kms). The EDC canteen does not have breakfast unless you pre-order but they let you take your packed food and use their dining area. Of course, you won't believe if I told you they couldn't even provide a cup of tea! Please keep a fiver ready if you want to use the toilets; they rarely have change! (Fuel efficiency shown by the instrument panel FE calculator was 17.5 till this point)

If you want tea, stop at Karimutty (118kms). The little tea shop at the bridge serves nice tea.

The road to Anamudi shola splits off to the left at Marayoor (120kms), just after the petrol station as you up come up the last curve. The rocky slopes on either side of the road from Marayoor to Kanthaloor are dotted with 'muniyaras' or dolmens, the ancient tribal burial sites. These simple tombs are empty now and are worth a brief stopover if you have time to spare.

You can go up to the 'muniyaras' through the Goverment school that is situated on the upper curve of an S-bend as you reach Kovilkadavu. The other option, which is actually better, is to look for a board on your left about a kilometer after the turn off near the petrol station, (much before the school I mentioned). This small road takes you to the top of the hillock where the 'muniyaras' are. You can park at the bottom and walk up or drive up if you have a car with an attitude!

We didn't hang around too long exploring the tombs. We had a long drive before lunch and I wanted to soak in the atmosphere of the shola. The sugarcane fields of Kanthaloor were filled with cane ready to be harvested. We reached Kanthaloor (135 kms) just before 11 AM. If an old man waves you down at the forest check post you can ignore him. He only wants to take you on a guided tour of Kanthaloor's fruit farms! The board pointing to Anamudi Shola suddenly seemed very familiar even though I had been on this road only once earlier. Perhaps a gaur would be waiting for us!

Easwari's stall  (138 kms) signalled the entry to the Shola. This time she had a larger variety of fruits including custard apple, guavas and bananas but no pears! She told us there had been no rains so the road was not so tough to travel on. It was then we realized there wasn't a cloud in the sky and it was extremely warm for a place in the hills. 

Upto now we had either traveled on highways or relatively narrow and winding ghat roads. The instrument panel's fuel efficiency calculator was now showing 15.6 kmpl. The next 7 or 8 kilometers were going to be a test for the Duster. 

There was no rain so it would be relatively easy. Absence of flowing water on the track would mean less chance of deeply eroded parts filled with slush or mud that could hide invisible dangers. I would know where my tire was going exactly. The last thing anyone would want is a tire burst! I had reached a bridge with a little cascade on my previous trip and that was my first destination.

A half hour break here enjoying the beautiful sounds and sights of nature we decide to move on. As we rolled over the loose cobbles on the track I could feel the Dusters power. No sudden jumps or slips. It just moved forward like the Nilgiri Tahr. I just had to point it in the direction I wanted it to go and it went forward where it was meant to go. I was mostly in second or first gears, and rarely in the third. The track gets more rough as we climb further.

The bright sun that had been with us till Easwari's shop was struggling to pentrate the canopy. The rough track was getting more narrower we progressed that I was left wondering where I'd go if a vehicle came from the opposite direction.

My fears were unfounded. The Duster was exhibiting its versatility and it seemed completely at ease in this environment. After about 8 kilometers of negotiating this rough track we reached the other end of the shola. It had taken us a hour (excluding the half hour spent at the little bridge) to cover this distance. There were no complaints of aches and pains after the constant bouncing. The car itself had not exhibited any strain. The fuel efficiency had come down to 13 kmpl after this stretch, which was not bad considering the fact that I had been driving in 1st or 2nd gear all through, with many stoppages.

There was no gaur or elephant waiting for us on the track but signs of their presence were all around.  We weren't disappointed though; the langur sentry fixed us with a glare that was filled with contempt. He knew the four adults and child below him were incapable of climbing his tree. He continued foraging without a second thought. 

The Malabar Giant Squirrel, whom we met near the watch tower on top of the shola, was even more  nonchalant in his expression. It seemed that we were invisible to him as gave a show for nearly 10 minutes at touching distance.

Outside the shola the landscape changes instantly. Within a few feet of the  forest check post the the vegetable farms and tea estates start. Though there is a fencing between them there was a distinct possibility of curious animals straying out of their territory.

Clear cloudless skies above us and winding roads under, our next stop was Kundala dam which we could see in the distance

  

There is a whole lot of Idukki district that will keep a Woodcrawler interested. I was constrained by the limitations imposed by my car. Now I have a vehicle that can take me anywhere without batting an eyelid (if it had one!) and without burning a deep hole in my pocket.

 Watch this space....... Mathikettan Shola and Pampadum Shola are on the radar now!

For the Duster Fans only

Total distance: 338  kms

Fuel consumed: (full tank to full tank): 22 liters (filled after 352 kms)

Fuel efficiency: Highway - 18 +/-, Hills - 15 +/-, Off road - 12 +/- (based on figures shown on the FE calculator in the instrument panel). Overall - 16 kmpl (based on topping up after 352 kms)

Ride quality: Excellent. There were two people with bad backs in the car. Despite the grueling drive in the Anamdi Shola, neither of us felt even a twinge of pain. On the highway there is no body roll even at high speeds and at no point do you get the feeling that you are losing control.

Engine noise: Barely audible even when negotiating tough roads in low gears, almost silent on highway

Gears: Easy shifting, no strain between 2000 to 3000 rpm, shift down if you run below 1500 rpm. I have found the clutch as easy as in my Punto. Drivers shifting from petrol engines might take a little time to get used to the heavier clutch and frequent need for down shifting.

Steering: Easy and ultra steady. It was only when the wheels slipped of loose rocks that I felt a wobble, which I think is natural. Again, people shiftin from a smaller or lighter car might find it a bit stiff.

Tires: Excellent on the highway. Minor slipping on loose gravel in the Shola. The OE MRF Wanderers seemed to be better suited to paved roads than off-roading. Have to test it out on rough terrain in the rains.

Misty & Mysterious Munnar - Part 3: Pambadum Shola, Kundala & Mattupetty

See Part 2 here

28th August, 2012
Dawn comes early in Munnar though the sun struggles to show its face through the clouds and rain. For a photographer, it is new opportunity every minute. Looking out of my window the 'blue hour' really was blue, but the colours keep shifting every moment.

The fog kept rolling down the hillside behind the resort and even the "man on the mountain" as my son called "him" looked like he wasn't enjoying the weather.

After a quick breakfast we were out on the road. We had a lot of ground to cover and it meant that we had to back track to Munnar first before getting on the road to Mattupetty & Top Station. Remember, distances here are measured in time, not kilometers! The first few kilometers towards Munnar was sufficiently free of fog to allow an acceptable progress. 

Then comes this little narrow gap in between two valleys before you reach Devikulam.........

                                                                                                                      

Once you cross this part into the next valley visibility drops abruptly and the road becomes a little narrower with steep edges. The fog lifts as you reach lower, towards Munnar but watch out for senseless TNSTC bus drivers who think they are driving on a four lane expressway. Keep your fog lamps on, switched off the music, lower a window and use your horn regularly. 

When you reach Munnar, don't cross the bridge I mentioned in the last post. Instead, go straight around the curve. The Mattupetty road takes a hair pin turn to the right near the government guest house, going upwards immediately. I couldn't stop for  photo without causing a traffic jam! 

That road gets a bit busy as it is the main route for tourists in Munnar. The first stop on the way to Top station is Mattupetty dam (21 kms from Munnar). Actually the 1st stop for tourists is Photo Point, a twin hair pin slope set amidst beautiful tea gardens where honeymooning couples stop for a mandatory Bollywood style photo. Unfortunately that place has a lot of tea stall now so it's not worth a stop any more. 

The road turns right over the dam, to go to Top station. Two vehicles can cross each other comfortably but the dam is usually crowded with day trippers who seem to think that it is a park rather than a road. Slow down and honk; there are few idiots who are reluctant to move aside for vehicles!

There is boating center a couple of kilometers further down where you can take a 15 minute boat ride for Rs.350. In summer, there is a good chance you might run into an elephant that is going down to get a drink from the reservoir.

We weren't too keen to test the weather especially with the temperature outside reading 15 degrees!

The Kundala Dam (25 kms from Munnar) is smaller and the place was less crowded than Mattupetty. 

You might miss the turn because the highway curves right and the board that points you to the dam is partly hidden by another. The highway is very good so you might be just enjoying the drive enough to miss the board unless you are conscious of the distance you have traveled.

There is Noorgiri farm restaurant just before the diversion to Kundala dam where you can get a decent meal. Once you cross that junction look for the board (above) and the smaller road going left to the dam.

Besides the boating (only pedal boats here) you have the usual curio stalls, tea & noodles shops, horse riding, balloon shooting and the "Sir, can I take your picture & give you the print in 10 minutes" photographers.

You can get three shots for Rs.10 so we decided to try it. I good-humouredly told the boy that both of us would take a chance on the condition that I'd get a refund if I shot all three. My son missed three and I hit the target two out of three times. As I was loading up for the last shot the 'target range owner' asked me if he could give my last pellet to my son. Perhaps he took me too seriously!

We had a nice cardamom in a little stall and made some enquiries about the road beyond the dam. On our first day to Anaimudi Shola we had been told that the road through it reaches Kundala. The chaiwallah was more forthcoming. He said not only jeeps but cars and auto-rickshaws plied the road, some loaded with produce from Kanthaloor. There were a couple of difficult spots but could be negotiated with a little careful driving. So it's only a matter of time for us to take a drive through Anaimidi Shola!

The Kundala dam is narrower than Mattupetty so watch out for traffic coming from the other side. Even regular 50 seater buses cross over this narrow strip. I guess there must be some sort of traffic control in place during vacation season. Since this season was dull there wasn't much traffic to delay us on our next leg. 

Before Top Station you cross Yellapetty, a small village below the road. The scene is straight out of the English countryside with cabbage patches & cows lazing around!

Watch out for some friendly horses on the road! This one was trotting alongside and ahead of us blocking our progress. If you have your window wound down it will even put its head into the car for a snack you have to offer!

The Top Station (35 kms from Munnar) junction is nothing but a hotel in a corner. This is apparently the only place to get a meal if you have not packed food. The road going left goes to Pambadum Shola (our destination, so more about it later). 

If you go right you supposedly reach a view point (to which you have to climb down a bit) from where you can see the Kolukkumalai peak and one of the highest located tea estates in the world. 

We did not go to the view point (the upper edge of the grassy slope in the picture above) since our priority was different but apparently it gives you a great view of the Kolukkumalai peak (7900 meters) and the neighbouring Tamilnadu

The road going left from the junction goes to Pambadum Shola National Park and Vattavada village thereon. The entrance to Pampadum Shola National Park (37 kms from Munnar) is a little more than a kilometer from this junction. There is an office where they issue a pass and assign a guide if you want to trek in the shola.

The road after the check post goes to Vattavada village. There is something mentioned about the "highest road South of Himalayas" but it has been erased for some reason!

We registered ourselves at the office (Rs.100 for two of us), picked up a camera and started walking. Our expectations were dampened a little when we discovered that we'd not be going off into the dense forest paths. That would have to wait till summer since the rains had made the jungle paths very slippery that there was the risk of injury if from an accidental fall. Of leeches we were not worried, about but with a bad back it made sense to accept the suggestion to walk a safer route.

Our walk was therefore confined to an asphalted road that was actually the old Munnar-Kodaikanal road. It has been closed down now for the protection of the rich biodiversity of the shola forests. This route passed by the Berijam lake near Kodaikanal.

Along the road there are firelines and markers demarcating the border between Kerala & Tamilnadu.

  

The Pamabdum Shola is really wet place and the name translates into "the Shola where Snakes dance" but the snakes make an appearance only in after the sun comes out, to warm themselves. As we walked deeper the sky disappeared from view and it was like walking through a tunnel.

It looked like the wet weather would force us to return early but the clouds held back. A light drizzle was acceptable considering the environment we were in. As we walked further it looked like we were stepping into another world; one that belonged to dinosaurs. Moss covered tree trunks and branches with giant ferns, made the place look prehistoric.

Of course, dinosaurs were not going to come crashing out of the foliage but there were plenty of other things that we ran across in just 90 minutes. First thing that caught my attention was a brown bird that flew across the track. A female Malabar Trogon.

So if she was there, her mate could not be too far away. Sure thing, he appeared a minute later. To perch on a tree just beyond his mate. 

The last Malabar Trogon I had seen was 10 years ago in Silent Valley National Park. I regretted the decision to leave my big lens and camera in the car. I wasn't sure what I was heading into so I did not want to carry gear that weighed a little over 4 kgs. My Oly OM-D is eminently weather sealed to survive any wet weather but my lens just did not have the reach.

A minute later I saw a yellow bird that appeared to be an Common Iora to me, but I couldn't be sure. My undue caution in avoiding heavy equipment put me in a situation I was regretting now.

A little further on, there was a sudden noise of movement in the canopy. A group of black langurs feeding on figs. One of them looked at me for a while and decided I could not reach it and continued the business that had been interrupted.

The show wasn't over yet. There were signs of the elephant and gaur but it required something extraordinary to bring them out onto the track in wet weather at 1 PM in the afternoon. Our rumbling abdomens reminded us it was time for lunch so we turned back since a decent lunch was an hours drive away. Half way back to the car we saw this Malabar Giant Squirrel foraging for its lunch not too far from the edge of the track. 

It was a fulfilling exploratory trip and perhaps the first of the many to come. Pambadum Shola was a treasure trove. If a 90 minute walk could reveal so much I was wondering what else a two day program with a halt in the forest lodge overnight would throw up! This is reputedly a place where the endangered Nilgiri Marten is found so I have solid reason to return.

As we drove back I was again reminded of measuring distance in time in Munnar. There is too much to see and absorb. You cannot avoid stopping mesmerized by the sights nature throws up at every turn. 

Of course, you can't beat us humans to also make you slow down and pause to think of other reasons to slow down on these narrow roads.

By the time we got back to our resort it was almost 6 PM. At the end of  a long day the soothing sight of the Power House Falls was worth a final stop. 

To be continued......