Showing posts with label Wayanad. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wayanad. Show all posts

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Nights in Nagarahole - The Final Chapter

I have delayed the last part of this series deliberately for many reasons but it got delayed a little longer than I expected with my BSNL broadband dying on me. It is still not up so I'm relying on my rather unrelaible Reliance USB stick, which claims on its surface to be a broadband but behaves like one of those old modems from the Sancharnet days!

27th May, 2012. A long weekend in the wilderness drew to a close. The previous night's excitement was fresh in the mind and a herd of chitals rushing down the road as if their tails were on fire promised an action packed departure. The herd halted their mad rush in front of the rest house and were looking back the way they came.

I was ready with my camera pointing in the general direction of where I expected a predator would most likely make its grand entry. That never happened because  a minute later a taxi appeared. It was the one from Mysore to pick my sister and family. It had reached very early. Not surprising, since the day starts early in Nagarahole




Mahadeva had readied khara bath to go with the bread and omlettes. All of us had long journeys back so we tucked into breakfast. As always leaving from a place teeming with wildlife is a heart wrenching experience for me and breakfast tasted like ash in my mouth. I cannot smile for a photograph. Period!














Rather than driving straight off towards Wayanad, I followed the taxi upto Murkal camp. We had taken a trip in the night to meet the gaur and we wanted to see how it looked in daylight. Besides, it gave us an excuse to hang around a little longer!

















Now, largely abandoned, our plans to explore the camp had to be shelved. The minute our car halted we were promptly shooed off by the enthusiastic guard. Not wanting to break rules we co-operated and turned back. 







There were a row of buildings that looked like disused cottages. What an experience it would be to sit outside one of them and watch the nightlife of Nagarahole pass by? I guess that will remain a dream forever.



As we drove back wistfully the greenery gave way to dried up bamboo. Forest fires had happened earlier this year. We hoped it would not happen. A lone crested serpent eagle kept vigil on the bamboo, perhaps ensuring that we got out without damaging its habitat.






Just as we reach the park gates there is a banyan tree that my son calls the gate of Jurrassic Park. We drove through it with a promise to come back to this paradise very soon.

After the Karnataka-Kerala border the road passed through the Tholpetty range. The Tholpetty WLS allows private vehicles to go into the forest. The rate for a jeep is Rs.400/-. The forest department allots a guide and a vehicle for the 90 minute drive in the forest. They allow 30 vehicles in the morning and 20 in the evening. I can surmise what we will see in those 90 minutes especially if you are the last to get in!


Of course, if you missed the wildlife inside the WLS there are always a few wild creatures outside to keep you interested. It is always better to fertilize the trees rather than waste it in a King's toilet! A Malayalee is always concerned about the environment. After all, what is a little stench when a teak tree will benefit!

The roads in Wayanad are beautiful. All the way from Tholpetty to Thamaraserry it's an enjoyable winding drive if you can ignore the traffic.






Along the way we bumped into Mr. Bean but that is another story...........check Mango musings after a few days!


Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Nights in Nagarahole - Part 1: Route

I've realized now why my fingers were struggling over the keyboard. In my obsession with Bandipur I forgot that there is a world outside it. I would probably have been blind to this Bandipur-less world if it had not been for my sister & bro-in-law.

Friday 25th April, 2012 saw my car heading off in a direction that promised a lot. Wayanad & Nagarahole are a an extremely exciting combination provided we have the time to let it soak into our senses. I realized halfway through the trip that that I needed another couple of days if I had to really explore this lovely piece of wilderness.

Words are now jostling over each other in my head and I'm not sure where to start. I have therefore decided that I'll record my trip in chronological sequence.

First things first. Before any trip I like to "get prepared" and so I went trundling around the net with search strings that read like this "nagarahole national park", "nagarahole map", "nagarahole forest rest house" and the like. Imagine my surprise when I found out that except for the Google map showing a road passing through Nagarahole from Kutta to Hunsur there was nothing to tell me what lay in between!

The first thing I've done is to mark the locations on Google Earth so people interested in a wild vacation in Nagarahole will know exactly where they have to stop. We were booked into the Kallahalla FRH, right in the middle of the forest. If you exclude the road that passes in front of the rest house it will be "deep-in-the-jungle"!

The Route from Palakkad

The road to Nagarahole from Palakkad goes through some really winding terrain. I've recorded myself driving through the shortest route.  Point Zero is my house. (All distances in brackets are from Point Zero).

The first major town is Mannarkad (40kms). Just after Mannarkad, NH 213 takes a left turn at Kumaranputhur junction (43kms). Keep going straight on the Nilambur road. After Alanallur, Melattur, Pandikad (72kms) you will reach Manjeri (85kms). It can be a little confusing here so don't hesitate to ask for help.

Manjeri town has a bypass that appears on your right immediately after the Korambayil Hospital. This bypass curves gently and reaches a junction. You have to turn right here onto the Nilambur-Areekode road. A little further, the road turns right to Nilambur. Keep going straight for Areekode.

Areekode in exactly 100 km from Palakkad. Keep going straight through the town and you will hit Mukkom (115kms), followed by Omaserry (120kms) and Thamaraserry (130kms). At Thamaraserry this road joins the Kozhikode - Mysore highway where you have to turn right for Kalpetta.


After climbing the ghat road which is picturesque by itself you will reach Vythiri ((160kms). You can take an alternate route from here which is a trifle winding so what you make up on distance you lose in time. (I returned through that route so I'll give the details later). Kalpetta (172kms) has a bypass but is best avoided. The road is in pathetic condition and it rejoins the highway in the heart of town! Just out side the town is the Kainatty junction (174kms) where you have to take a left for Manathavady.

The road passes through Kaniyambetta (182 kms) and Panamaram (188kms) to reach Mananthavady (204 kms). In Manathavady get onto the Kattikulam- Tholpetty road. At Kattikulam (215kms) take a left turn immediately after an IndianOil Petrol station onto the Thirunelliy - Tholpetty road. This is the last petrol station before Nagarahole. (You will see the Pancahyat office on your right at the Junction).

Thirunelly - Tholpetty fork

The road divides about 10 kms later the left fork going to Thirunelly and the right to Tholpetty. It is well marked there so you cant lose your way. The Tholpetty WLS entrance (229kms) is only three kilometers from Kutta (232 kms). If you are driving by road better fuel up at Kattikulam because the petrol station at Kutta is defunct and they were drying arecanuts in the yard!!



 

Kutta Junction



As you enter Kutta, just past the Forest Check post the bus stand appears on your right. You have to make a sharp U-turn to get onto the Nagarahole road. (Between the two posts in the photo. The road on the right is the one that comes from Tholpetty to Kutta)







From here on it is a straight road. After signing in at the National park boundary (236 kms) you drive through dense forests before you reach the Reception center (242kms) where all the activities are coordinated.



Two forest department guest houses are available here, the Kaveri & Gangothri.
Kaveri FRH

Gangothri FRH

Kallahalla (250kms) forest rest house is another eight kilometers away. Located on top of a rise the rest house overlooks a waterhole.
Kallahalla FRH
 This 1924 vintage, British built, forest rest house is an ideal location for a quiet communion with nature. The building has been renovated recently and the first floor has two rooms with attached bathrooms. It has running water but since electricity is unpredictable, you should be prepared for cold baths, warm fridge & dead batteries in laptops and cameras. You can leave your cell phones behind since this place in eminently out of range, even from BSNL's network though the caretaker said there was a corner where you would get a connection.

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