Saturday, April 30, 2016

Of Birds, Birders & the Palghat Gap - Part 1

It's been a while since I tread the blogging trial, and with good reason. I've been afflicted!
I think I have a type of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD) that centers around creatures with feathers. OCD is defined as a common, chronic and long-lasting disorder in which a person has uncontrollable, recurring thoughts (obsessions) and behaviours (compulsions) that he or she feels the urge to repeat over and over.

For a while now, my thoughts have been centered around birds. Earlier, woodcrawling always included everything in the woods but now I brake suddenly on my drives when a feathered creature whizzes past. So much so, that the risk of getting rear-ended by someone driving behind me is going to become a reality sooner than later. I'm only hoping that the unfortunate soul, who might slam the butt of my car, will think that I'm just a crazy guy with a crazy obsession!

Ever since I spoke on bird-watching to our local ophthalmic association's members and family, I have suddenly found people recognising me in restaurants and other places as 'that bird chap'. They don't even remember my name! For God's sake! I have a name, a nick name and I also like to watch tigers, leopards, elephants and other myriad creatures of the jungle!

Of course, it is undeniable that, what once was an occasional pass time has now become an obsession. I'm overcome by jealousy when my brothers in arms are able to run off after the feathered kind any time they choose, while I'm stuck in my consulting room wrangling with patients. 
Adv. Namassivayan Lakshmanan (Pic courtesy: Namassi in the pic)

Venugopalan Raghunathan

The two gentlemen above feel that best way to watch birds is to let them come to you. Choose a strategic spot, park yourself in a portable chair and tune up the binoculars. They will come fluttering around as long as you don't make sudden moves!
Sometimes, the legs have to be given a bit of exercise while in pursuit!
Venugopalan Raghunathan & Gopal Prasad 
Occasionally you have to pick your way over rocks or wade through a stream to catch up with the certain species, but it is truly well worth the effort. Sometimes, the summer sun beats down mercilessly; especially when you are searching for water birds in the middle of a reservoir that has little water after a long hot summer. A little bit of sun burn or heat exhaustion is nothing compared to seeing and recording the presence of a bird that makes its rare or seasonal appearance at the spot you have been haunting!
Gopal Prasad

Krishna Moorthy, the teacher with a willing pupil


I had been wandering around the fringes of the Malampuzha reservoir for the last few years documenting the birdlife around and within it. Then, after linking up with the gentlemen above, I realize, I have only taken baby steps into the fascinating world of birds. Compared with the others of my birding group, I'm a novice. While they identify birds by calls and look only for confirmation; I have to look, listen and often refer the manual to be sure. Sure, I'm learning, but it is slow progress!  
 
 THE PALGHAT GAP
If you try Googling for birding sites in Kerala, the first one that always pops up is Thattekad & Salim Ali bird sanctuary. Arippa, Kadalundy & the Kole lands of Thrissur will also figure somewhere in the list. Palakkad or Palghat as it was called, rarely figures in any birder's radar except for Silent Valley NP and Parambikulam tiger reserve.

 The Palghat gap is a 30 kilometer break in the Western Ghats, flanked on the north by the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve and on the south by the Anaimalai hills. The northern part of the gap is a natural boundary between Kerala and Tamilnadu. At the edge of these slopes is the Malmapuzha reservoir, surrounded by forests that teem with wildlife that includes large and small mammals, and a vast variety of birds. 

While I was happy to be looking for the birds on the forests bordering the reservoir and lying on either side of the roads, there was one gentleman; who, more than any other, opened up the possibility of exploring beyond the borders, Mr. Green Dinesh.


Green Dinesh (Pic courtesy: Namassivayan Lakshmanan)


Green Dinesh with Gopal Prasad

 Once we discovered that there were small unexplored pockets just beyond the ends & edges of the road our birding legs took us further afield, opening up a hitherto undiscovered treasure house of birds in our own backyard, the Palghat Gap




The rest of this series will attempt to give you a glimpse into this journey of discovery for a small team of ardent birders. Perhaps a day will come when this small area will see its name on the birding maps of the world, and wouldn't it be nice to be credited with the discovery!

Sunday, January 31, 2016

Big Cat Magnet or a Lucky Talisman?

Pinks are Links

I have been doing the wildlife circuit for more than a decade and a half now and my first close encounter with a big cat in the wild came after 5 years of tiger tracking! Even after that, the few times I crossed paths with the big cats, were few and far in between. 

Then, in the January of 2015 I broke my 300mm f2.8, the best lens that I owned broke in two and my heart with it. I had mounted it on my E-M1 and it was the first trip with a new camera. It still rankles but then it seems there is a bright side to the debacle. It seems that this nightmare ordeal in the middle of a safari was the turning point in my woodcrawling life.

On that first trip with the E-M1 I met two leopards, not something I had experienced since April of 2010. The first one walked past when I was still recovering from the previous day's experience. I had an older 50-200 mm lens I carried as back up but forgot that all zoom lenses have a long ends to them! I got some pictures but it was too late by the time I realized that I was shooting at around 125 mm!! The very next morning, we had our second leopard of the trip and I, again, forgot that I had a tele-zoom and an in-body digital teleconvertor! So much for getting used to a prime.

Meanwhile, Olympus Japan sent me the Zuiko ED 90-250mm f2.8 as a replacement. I wasn't very keen on a medium telephoto zoom even if it was fast. I would have preferred my prime. This lens wasn't ideal for birds even with a 2x teleconverter attached. However, in combination with the E-M1 it was doing a much better job than with the E-M5. In addition, I started noticing, my big cat encounters suddenly was on the upswing! 

People carry many things on themselves that are purportedly, their lucky talismans. I never believed in such things personally and so never had one on myself. The next trip was to Kabini, in April of 2015. The E-M1 was now permanently mounted to the new lens and they seemed to make a fine pair. together. On that trip, we met the spotted one up close. This one was lapping up water from a puddle not 20 meters away, and then walked towards us before cutting across the track into the forest beyond.  



It was then that I started getting the feeling that something was happening. A big cat was always a bonus on any trip but this was becoming a habit. I didn't think much about it but then the feeling got reinforced on our next Bandipur safari. In August we did a combined Bandipur-Masinagudi trip with a friend and his family. Once again, late in the evening, we got a call about a tiger sighting. Predators don't wait for us; so we went, half expecting that the beast would have taken cover from prying human eyes. When we reached the spot he was still there, the Prince of Bandipur


He was one tiger I always wanted to meet but never succeeded in any of our trips. There he was lolling about in a mud puddle looking absolutely disinterested at all the excitement he was generating.  Once again, a very close encounter! I looked at my E-M1 and the new lens with a new found respect! They were a rocking combination! Four cats in three trips never happened to me before. More like one cat in five trips!

23rd October, 2015

The pull of the wilderness never goes away and if Skanda and I had half a chance, we'd be off. So the Pooja holidays of 2015 was just another excuse! We packed our gear and drove off to Bandipur. By now I had procured another adapter for my son and we were both using OM-Ds with four-third lenses. He had the Zuiko ED 50-200 mm f2.8 SWD on his E-M5.

Morning safaris are more for the birds but as we turned a corner on Wesley road, Bomma, our driver said. "Leopard." For a few seconds we were searching around us, and then we realized that the cat was in the grass ahead of us, marking territory as cats do!


We thought he'd slink away into the bush seeing us but it seemed he was out for a purpose. He got off the grass and onto the road.


Without hesitation he kept moving straight at us. Our presence was not going to dissuade him from advancing.


At one point he moved onto the grass in the middle of the track, sprayed on it, and kept coming forward.



He wasn't taking his eyes off us. Perhaps he was curious to know what we'd do.

Then, a few meters ahead of us he crossed to the other side and continued advancing.




Some 10 meters in front of our vehicle he veered of onto the grass, maybe realizing that we were not moving.




One withering look................


...............and a purposeful turn of the head before heading off away from us.

At touching distance he moved towards the lantana...........


...........and disappeared through a gap.

It was a great morning, and again I felt that the new combination of gear seemed to be having an effect on our opportunities for meeting the big cats, striped or spotted! With that overwhelming feeling we reversed to go onto a parallel track, hoping that this beautiful creature would appear again.

As we waited, he appeared from behind us and started stalking something in the bush.


I think the noise of the camera shutters furiously clicking annoyed him. He gave a single backward glance, as if to tell us, "Buzz off! I'm hungry!"


As we moved away leaving him to his hunt he resumed his stalking, of a chital herd, once again.


Whether he caught his breakfast, we never found out, but we sat for a very satisfying breakfast at the resort. That feeling about the E-M1 and the 90-250 mm lens working as a lucky charm was intensifying!  Ever since the E-M1 came, we had not had a trip without a big cat. Big Cat Magnet is seemed to be!!

Wednesday, November 04, 2015

Rendezvous with Royalty

Pinks are Links

The pull of Bandipur had become unbearable.

Our last trip there, was in January of this year and it was a disaster of sorts because my favourite lens, the 300mm f2.8, had broken at the mount. It was a devastating experience and I had just about recovered from it. I had been keeping off Bandipur because some painful memories would flood back if I reached the anti-poaching camp within the tiger reserve, the location of the breakage incident!

In the intervening months, I had been to Kabini, B.R Hills and Chinnar but Bandipur refused to relent and I finally gave in. Pooja holidays provided me an opportunity and with a friend's family for company, we went back our favourite corner in the world.

27th August, 2015
An encounter with a bull elephant in musth at the start of our first safari, seemed to be the highlight of the day and we were on the last half hour of the evening safari when the call came. There was a tiger at a waterhole! Without wasting valuable time we headed towards where the action was, Moolapura. Tigers would not be comfortable in the presence of humans so we were not really expecting it to wait for us. However, when we reached the spot, we were greeted by the sight of the big cat soaking itself in the muddy water.


















It seemed that it had fed well and was cooling off its systems in the water. We weren't sure if it was a male or female but the tiger (or tigress) was not looking disturbed by our presence. Cameras were clicking away furiously on all sides but the rattle of the shutters didn't seem to annoy the beast. Then, suddenly, it came to life.



It lifted it's big head and folded its rear legs as if to get up. Perhaps all the noise from our vehicles and excited visitors had annoyed it.


Then after a moment's hesitation it laid its head on its paws and lay down again. It seemed it was too full to move.


 With a great deal of effort it lifted it's head and turned its gaze towards us. I gasped! It was instant recognition. 

I was in the presence of His Royal Highness, the Prince of Bandipur! He fixed us with a baleful glare, as if he was saying, "Why can't you leave me in peace?" I recognized him, Prince; the most photographed tiger in Bandipur and the King of all he surveyed. The unmistakable feature was the cleft in his upper lip on his right side. Possibly a legacy of some fight for territorial rights.


After a momentary exchange of glances, which literally left me with jellied knees, he dropped his head again.


Then for another brief moment he lifted his head, looked up, sweeping all the parked vehicles with heavy lidded gaze before slumping down again to catch up with a disturbed dream!



For a full 20 minutes we were all transfixed by the sight of the Prince. I forgot my gear, and kept clicking away without changing any setting. Occasionally he would lift up his head and look at us, as if asking, "Why are you still hanging around?"



Then finally, maybe in disgust, he turned away and put his head down on his massive paws and resumed his slumber. Only the occasional twitch of his tail betraying his irritation with us and the flies buzzing around him!



It was past 6.30, time for the park gates to close. When we left him, he was still facing away soaking in the brown water.

It was the best encounter I had with a tiger in the wild, and the longest. It seemed that the new Zuiko 90-250mm f2.8 was proving lucky for me!





Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Wild Elephants - Myths of the Musth

The elephant is a pet obsession of every Malayali. It would be difficult to imagine a temple festival without an array of caparisoned elephants. From a single tusker to as many as thirty, depending on the size of the temple's coffers, these decked up pachyderms are one of the attractions of God's own Country!

(As usual Pinks are Links!)

Unfortunately for most, if not all, of these elephants the period of musth, is a torture. During musth these normally gentle creatures become masses of seething anger and viciousness. The captive elephants are chained, isolated, and starved or tranquillized with the idea that it will curb their killer instincts. Nothing can be farther than the truth. I read an interesting chapter from the book 'Practical Elephant Management; A handbook for Mahouts, which mentions the ways to handle a captive elephant in musth! For a true elephant lover it reads like a horror story!

Sometime in March this year, Gajendra, a tusker belonging to the Karnataka Forest Department, killed its mahout and fatally injured another tusker Sri Rama. Both these elephants were stationed in K Gudi, B R Hills and were regulars during the Dasara festivities in Mysuru. Like all tuskers, Gajendra too went through cycles of musth but had never attacked anyone so far. When I went to B R Hills this year, I saw a forlorn Gajendra, perhaps filled with remorse at his action that resulted in the death of two of his closest associates; his mahout and fellow pachyderm. It was two months after the tragedy but it seems, the elephant's emotional upheavals had not subsided yet.
A remorseful Gajendra
I know I must be right because this has been mentioned in an article by A.Rajaram, published in Resonance, a journal of the Indian Academy of Science, Bengluru.
Looking like he lost his best chums
27th September, 2015

Turning the clock forward to Onam vacation 2015. We were in Bandipur for three days and on the first trip out into the forest, going down the Mysuru-Ooty highway, we ran into a herd of elephants. There were seven of them, grazing on either side of the road. Two tuskers with females, sub adults and a calf were feeding in the succulent grass growing on roadside after the rains.

One young tusker was on the right side of the road walking parallel to our vehicle. He broke into a hurried run to overtake us.

This male was separated by the road from the highway
 Once past us he turned towards a gap in the impenetrable wall of lantana, perhaps going towards the large pond a little further off inside the forest. It was quite a warm afternoon and a leisurely soak was in order.

We had halted just before reaching the main herd of six elephants, including the other magnificent male who appeared to be in musth.

The rest of the herd

The tusker in musth.
 All the elephants looked in prime health unlike the ones we saw in Nagarahole in May. The only aberration was this big male, who had the obvious patch of wetness between his eyes and ears, the secretion from his musth gland. The sight of a tusker in musth is sufficient to sent an average human being into a tizzy. That is because of the disrepute captive tuskers have earned with their behaviour during periods of musth. I hope the brief description that follows, at the end of this post, about the mating behaviour in elephants, will help dispel a few myths about elephants in musth. 

Meanwhile, we were watching the younger male on the right of the road. He abruptly turned back, strode purposefully onto the road and proceeded to cross it. Obviously, the females had communicated with him, either by means of infrasonic rumbles which the human ears cannot hear, or by seismic vibrations. 
The young tusker crossing to rejoin the herd

He seemed to be reassuring them to remain calm


He walked unhurriedly to where the herd was gathered....

....and joined them.

As we were watching this peaceful scene one chap on a motorcycle decided that it was safe to go, but the matriarch wasn't to pleased. She gave a mock charge to hurry the rider on his way
"Get away you moron!"


Then she started to cross the road.
All this action, meanwhile, had made us lose attention of the bull in musth that had actually been nearest to us earlier. When we looked for him he wasn't there! Then suddenly the lantana parted a few meters from us and the bull emerged silently!
The bull emerging from the lantana
 He wasn't interested in testing out the sharpness of his tusks on us. He was probably observing us from the cover of the lantana to assess whether we were a threat to himself or the herd! He walked towards the road in front of us in a very dignified manner.

Without wasting a glance at us he followed the matriarch, obviously his mate for the season, across the road. The tell tale wetness on his hind legs, from the trickle of urine, which is another sign, confirmed that he was in musth.

For a bull in musth he showed no sign of ill temper or aggression. He was only concerned about rejoining his mate on the other side of the road. Why many of us have such a fear complex about bull elephants, especially the ones in musth, is something I cannot fathom!

The young male who had, meanwhile, joined the rest of the herd then proceeded to escort the youngsters and sub adults across the road.

Responsible big brother escorting cousins and others across


The little one was still nervous

Big sister urges her sibling to cross with her
Eventually the entire herd was on the right side of the highway. No drama, except when the matriarch mock charged the motorcyclist. As the big bull went to join the others the younger bull disappeared into the lantana. He wasn't ready for a showdown. His turn would eventually come, a few years from now.

A purposeful walk towards the herd

He dispatched the young bull with a wave of his trunk and perhaps a rumble!

On really big & happy family!
During this entire episode, I did not feel threatened; not even for a moment. As long as our vehicle was parked, with engine running, and we were not getting off it; we were safe. The elephants were looking to cross, and maybe go for a relaxing swim at the pond inside the park. Once the two safari vehicles parked on either side of the herd, blocking the rest of the traffic, the crossing was accomplished without undue stress.

What I'm trying to highlight here is that elephants in the wild are not as aggressive as their captive cousins! It is a misconception that wild elephants are looking to wreak havoc on passing humans. Even a lone tusker, unless it is in musth, rarely attack. They only make threatening gestures but never proceed with a fatal intention. I have encountered, on many occasions, an elephant that came at our vehicle. They will stop short once they know you mean no harm.

Understanding the Musth Mystery
To understand the phenomenon of musth and the sudden change in the behaviour of, what was till then, a placid pachyderm, we have to delve into the details of mating in elephants. Most of us have major misconceptions of a bull elephant in musth. I hope to dispel at least some of that misconceptions and with that, the inherent fear such misconceptions incite in us, by the end of this post.

Elephant Family Structure
Elephants have a highly ordered family structure. Herds in the forests of South India number from 5 to 12 individuals but can swell to upto two dozen or more sometimes. The herds are usually led by a matriarch, the oldest and most experienced female. The rest of the herd mainly consists of the matriarch's sisters and off spring, mostly females and few younger males. Females remain with the herd all their life and help during birth and in bringing up the calves.

If the herd becomes large and food and water sources dwindle in the traditional grazing areas few females may leave to form new herds. These herds will mingle again for  short periods, especially during migration to greener pasteurs. Large congregation of elephants are a regular feature around the Kabini reservoir in summer. Males leave the herd when they are 12-14 years and are usually solitary, or form loose groups of two or three.

Breeding in elephants
The female elephants come into 'heat' once every three or four months. She will be able to conceive only in a brief window of 3-5 days. During this period she is receptive to mating. A female in oestrus attracts males by their behaviour. They raise their head, make rumbling vocalizations and often spend time with the male they have selected, even leaving the herd for short periods.  

The bull, that the female accepts as her mate, stays with the herd for about two weeks. After mating, he then heads off back to his solitary life till the next season. He plays no role during his mate's pregnancy, calving or in the bringing up his off spring! The gestation period of elephants is the longest of all mammals; some 20-22 months. The birth of the calf usually coincides with the end of summer or beginning of the wet season when food and water will not be scarce.

A Bull in Musth
The musth period in an elephant is a physiological phenomenon that occurs once a year in all mature bulls. True, that there is a production excess of testosterone, sometimes in the region of 60 times more than normal, but that is because the bull is ready for procreation. It has been interpreted as "the honest advertising of the male's sexual availability and condition". The smell of the musth secretion and the constant dribbling of urine scent marks their trail and attracts receptive females.  

It has been noted that during musth other males, especially younger ones, avoid contact with the bull in musth. Younger males don't go into musth at the same time as older and bigger males. The males in musth are aggressive and pick fights on a whim so it helps when there is only one male in musth at at time. In the right company, a bull in musth is like any other elephant. It's honest intention is to mate but the condition itself being very uncomfortable makes them behave extraordinarily.

In the wild, these bulls have an outlet, in the form of a very coquettish female. Otherwise they usually keep to themselves away from the herds and other elephants, perhaps unsure of themselves. Considering that elephants are emotional animals, it is safe to assume that somewhere in the recesses of their mind bent on violence, there is a part telling them to avoid confrontation. So when a bull in musth rejoins a herd his only intention is to mate. As I mentioned earlier, he will stay with the herd for a short duration of few weeks and moves back to his solitary existence once he has achieved his purpose.

Captive elephants are, sadly, not so fortunate. Their life is a torture, though elephant owners will disagree! Chained for life, restricted from moving freely and forced to stand in their own excreta, their lives are a nighmare of sorts. To compound the fact, the management policies suggested in the Mahout's Handbook, makes life living hell for an elephant in musth. No wonder most captive elephants show a destructive streak, taking out their suppressed ire on animate and inanimate objects, when they are in musth. Such elephants become unmanageable and turn on their handlers, sometimes resulting in fatalities.

It is alleged that the increasing fatalities are directly related to the cruelty these gentle creatures are put through in the festival season. They are paraded in temples, transported on trucks and made to stand for hours in energy sapping heat. On top of that, drunken mahouts and greedy owners add to the elephant's woes. It is no wonder that the number of human deaths is growing over the years; a staggering 500 plus mahout deaths in 15 years! 

While temple elephants of Kerala in musth are chained, starved of food and water to suppress them the Karnataka Forest Department has a more humane approach. If they are not able to control the animal, it is let loose in the forest, but with chains on. The mahouts and the forest staff constantly follow and monitor the elephant so it does not get into trouble or cause any trouble for others. Wild tuskers in musth have rarely been implicated in such fatalities recently. The tales of rogue elephants from shikar stories probably have something to do with the tusker being in a period of musth.

To those who still are skeptical, let me assure you that in over a decade and a half of woodcrawling I have never been charged by a tusker. All charges that I have been faced with are mock charges by the females with small calves. More of a display of false aggression than with any real intent to hurt. Having said let me also highlight a few points again that should be remembered in the presence of wild elephants.

  1. Elephants don't attack unless provoked.
  2. Stay in the vehicle if you are faced with a herd or even a lone tusker.
  3. Keep the engine running all the time and don't get off. Elephants have poor eyesight your presence is not easily detected when you are in a closed vehicle.
  4. If you are on foot, back off slowly if your presence has not been detected.
  5. When inside a vehicle don't make noise or sudden moves. If you pop up like a jack-in-the-box you may annoy the elephant.
  6. Avoid flash photography. It irritates elephants, both male and female.
  7. Don't make noise to attract the animals, it only serves to provoke them.
  8. In the presence of a herd with very small calves, don't try to get too close. Female elephants tend to charge if they feel that you are a threat to the little one. 
  9. Lone tuskers are also not always dangerous and show less tendency to charge unlike females.
  10. If you run into a lone tusker in musth, avoid it at all costs. They behave unpredictably

Wild tuskers, rarely look for an encounter with humans. The prefer disappearing from our presence as quickly as they can. Only females with calves actually give you the charge!



I hope I have given you something to think about and get rid of some misconceptions about wild elephants. They have always been portrayed as villains though the truth is otherwise. It is our attitude and behaviour that makes these gentle creatures act as they sometimes do. Remember, they are herbivores so they don't kill to eat. Unless provoked, they will continue to feed contentedly or go about doing whatever elephants do when they are at peace with the world!

I love our elephants, I hope you start loving them too. 

Happy Woodcrawling!