Thoovanam - A Caressing Drizzle

Some nine years ago, Kurinji or Neelakurinji (Strobilanthes kunthiana) flowers had bloomed in Munnar. Having heard about the beauty of hillsides carpeted with this eccentric plant, that chose to flower only once every twelve years, I had driven off with much enthusiasm. Unfortunately, the best laid plans of men and mice don't always turn out the way it is supposed to. A heavy logjam of traffic at the Eravikulam National Park spoilt the chance of reaching anywhere near the elusive kurinji! After waiting for an hour we realized that we were getting nowhere and rumblings from somewhere near the middle of the anatomy helped make up our minds. A decision was made. We would return for the kurinji, later that season or after twelve years!

It was on that trip I discovered Chinnar, a small wild life sanctuary lying between the Kerala-TN border and Marayoor. Halfway along the ghat road below Marayoor is a wide curve from where I first laid my eyes on Thoovanam falls. Lying below the road and in the middle of a valley, it was in full flow then.

I had made enquiries then, about access to the sanctuary, and found that they offered treks into the forest. I returned a few days later and did two small treks, one to a place with some rock art and another along the river.

It was three years later that I went past Chinnar again, in 2009. Thoovanam was a trickle after a long dry summer.

My desire to trek to the bottom of the valley to feel the 'thoovanam', translatable as a light drizzle or a drizzle carried in the breeze, wasn't fulfilled and the few times I drove along that road, I did not have time for a three hour trek. Finally, I found a weekend and resolved to trek to this waterfall that had been tempting me for so many years.

2nd August, 2015

To access the Thoovanam falls you have to first reach the Alampetty EDC counter on the road to Marayoor. From Palakkad the route goes through Pollachi (45 kms) and Udumalpet (75 kms). At Udumalapet you have to get on the Munnar road. There is a divider all along the Pollachi - Udumalapet road within the town so you have to go to the end of the road, make a U-turn and come back to get on the Munnar road.

Now that the railway overbridge work is complete you don't have to take any confusing deviations inside the town. The Munnar road has a series of check posts starting with the police check post at Amaravathinagar (91 kms). The Tamilnadu forest department (TNFD) check post was immediately next to this but has been shifted further up on the road at the entrance of the Anaimalai Tiger Reserve (formerly Indira Gandhi National Park and WLS). You have to make an entry here and again at another TNFD check post the TN-Kerala border. Immediately after crossing the bridge on Chinnar river, that marks the state boundary, you drive into Kerala through a series of check posts; excise, commercial taxes and the Kerala Forest department's. You have to again enter details at the last check post that marks the start of Chinnar WLS (104 kms). 

The forest department has a rest house and dormitory here if you want to do an overnight trip. The eco-development committee has a small canteen where you can pre-order food if you are staying. The river trek and watch tower trek starts from here. The Alampetty EDC counter (116 kms) is halfway up the road to Marayoor from the Chinnar WLS entry. You can book your trek to the megalithic burial sites (dolmen or muniyaras), Thoovanam and Vasyapara from here. A tribal trekker guide will accompany you from here till you return.

The trek to Thoovanam follows a general downhill course from the EDC counter and the distance is approximately between three and four kilometers, depending on the little short cuts your guide might take you on. In any case it is an easy paced walk even for inexperienced trekkers. With the exception of a couple of slightly steep but short climbs it is overall a trek that can be done without too much of effort.

The shy barking deer

Along the way you will encounter many of the forest's true owners. The gaur and elephant are rarely seen but their presence is well documented on the ground by the dung. Wild boars can also be found blundering around the under bush occasionally.

Fresh steaming dung can be a magnet for some creatures!

Some, like these dung beetles fight over it!

Chinnar is rich in avian life and can occasionally throw up unexpected surprises.

This rufous bellied eagle was a first for me

   

A brown fish owl

If you are able to look above your head and around your feet, you'll see more interesting creatures. Chinnar's two famous residents are the grizzled giant squirrel and the star tortoise. I saw the former during this trek. Very shy and elusive they hide quickly.

Grizzled giant squirrel

They move fast and are difficult to photograph in the dense canopy

Grizzled giant squirrel

The other star of Chinnar, the star tortoise can also be seen frequently, though I did not run into one this time. I had an occasion to meet a rather fast tortoise on one of my earlier treks.

Star tortoise

Chinnar is also rich in insect and reptile species. A wide variety of butterflies keep flitting around the forests.

A common peacock butterfly

A shy cobra!

The rock agama

The trek path crosses a few streams and then goes upstream, parallel to the Pambar river.

Pambar river

Rapids on the Pambar

The trek path

The trek path

You hear Thoovanam before you see it. About 400 meters from the falls you will start hearing the rushing sound of  its waters. Upto now you were engulfed by the sounds of the birds and insects. Gradually that is replaced by a steadily roar of water rushing over a precipice, like the sound of a train coming ever closer. Then about 100 meters before the fall you see it for the first time.

The first view of the falls

The first view of the falls have a rejuvenating effect on you. Suddenly the aching muscles and protesting knees are forgotten and the pace picks up. A surge of energy spurs you as you reach  your destination, and that helps you cover the last 100 meters in double quick time; and then you are there! All the years of waiting is worth that effort that you put in as Thoovanam sprays its gentle caressing mist on you.

The cool waters are inviting but I had not carried a change of clothing. I just soaked in the atmosphere of Thoovanam. There is a gentle mist of water droplets that permeates the air around you and wets the rocks and plants below the fall. That is what gives it the name Thoovanam.

The frothy waters rise as a mist as it hits the rocks below

The cool waters are inviting for a dip!

I had finally made it. Now I'm planning to stay overnight in the hut that faces the falls at the first opportunity.

Downstream of the falls

The trek back is a little more taxing on the limbs especially for a person past middle age and used to sitting in a chair all day. It is a gradual climb on the return except the last stretch where it can be a little tough, especially if you choose to take a very steep short cut instead of the regular trek path.  I learnt a lesson about trekking that day, something that taught me not to overestimate our age and fitness levels. However that will not dissuade me from going back and spending a night beside this beautiful fall.

Thoovanam may not impress many like Athirapally but with the high inflow of tourists and mushrooming 'resorts' around the latter, it is not a place where you can go spend a few contemplative moments by yourself. At Athirapally and Vazahchal you are too busy avoiding the crowds, especially on holidays.

Athirapally

Athirapally from the top

Athirapally at the bottom of the falls

As long as Thoovanam's accessibility is not compromised it will be the prize for a privileged few who can will themselves to put in a 3-4 hour walk in a forest filled with interesting creatures. Many a quiet moment can be spent with the mist of droplets caressing your face.

 I want to go back, and soon.Waiting for a full moon night......

Dummies Guide to Creating a Man-eating Tiger!

Sometimes we see glaring evidences of the imperfections in God's creative skills. The most imperfect creature he created is Man and I'm sure he regrets not going through the blue-prints sufficiently before plunging into his task!

We are perhaps the only one in his countless creations that have an surfeit of evil over goodness, and of all the evils that God planted in us, ego is one of the worst. Ego is like cancer, the more you have the more it grows and eventually it overpowers the person that sometimes they think they are Gods themselves.

I am posting a video here that left many of my sensible friends and me shell shocked. This was uploaded on YouTube by a certain M**u R******t recently and has since been taken off after the uproar it caused. I am re-posting it here not to show how great the gentleman, M R, was but to tell you how not to behave in the jungle. This gent has a Facebook page that says he is a writer and a teacher who does not want to set a bad example for his students by writing on alcohol but for some strange reason has a website that has Rum Road and Ravings in its name! The link to the website, however, is not working but I got to his blog! Perhaps too much of rum and the he forgot to renew the domain!

Anyway, this video is his singular contribution on how to convert an innocent tiger into an alleged man eater, and get the poor creature get lynched by some frenzied mob. I want you to watch the video, look closely at the tiger's expressions before it bounds away into the jungle and also the reaction of the gent in question. While he is setting an bad example for many DSLR swinging wannabe photographers, there is a lesson to be learnt on how not to do things also.

Many of the tiger reserves in Kerala offer trekking packages, sometimes overnight, with armed guides. While, I admit, all guides cannot be viewed alike, there are certainly some bad apples like our guide in the video who will take you for are tiger show, shoot the video and pocket some money for massaging your already inflated ego! This video according to his Facebook album was shot in Parambikulam with the assistance of his guide.

Before the video was taken off there was a lengthy treatise in Malayalam, (wonder who has the patience to go through all that gibberish) on his success story but that is also gone missing now. The hero of this story is very proud of his achievement and rightfully so. After all, how many of us ordinary mortals have the influence in the right places to make an adventurous trip like that! I take pride in the fact that I am a nature photographer but have been very reluctant to use influence to get access to areas that are restricted to us 'ordinary mortals'. A very famous wildlife photographer is credited with saying that wildlife photography is not wildlife photography, unless done on foot! I agree, and I'd love the chance to be close to the ground, but how many wildlife sanctuaries or national parks permit access on foot?

Most, if not all, national parks in Karnataka have safaris on forest department or government vehicles. They are strict about numbers and that tourists should confine themselves to the vehicles at all times. It serves the purpose of protecting the person from unexpected attacks from disturbed wildlife. Most importantly, it works the other way too. I have had many opportunities to photograph wildlife at close quarters from such vehicles and never felt that I was disturbing them because we were always on the designated track.

When you are on foot, you are going off the beaten track, into the territory of the wildlife. However good your forest guide maybe, wildlife should be treated with respect. They are wild animals. Period. Rules and regulations apply on to humans. When we encroach on their rightful territory, they feel threatened and react instinctively. The Gavi incident, 21st January, where a couple of tourists were trampled is a prime example.

In the video above our hero M R, creeps as close a s possible to a resting tiger. He was lucky perhaps that it had eaten and was sleeping off the stupor! It was certainly surprised to see a two legged man thing so close to what it thought, was a safe place to sleep. It growls threateningly but notices that there is another person in the vicinity, so understanding that discretion is the better part of valour, turns and bounds off into the forest.

Let us assume for a moment that it was a tiger feeding or a tigress with very young cubs. The reaction in such a situation would have been very different. The animal would have probably taken the threat head on, in this case a quick leap and a ferocious attack. Our hero would have been badly mauled and perhaps been killed, not as food, but as a perceived threat. The guides can do nothing but stand and watch because things will need only a few seconds to go out of hand!

Then Mr. M R, would be real hero for the media, and the poor animal would be branded a man-eater! Public opinion would influence the forest department decision and in all likelihood the tiger would be trapped or killed.

A few selfish, egoistic folks like Mr. M R here don't realize that more than the risk they undertake on themselves, it is worse for the tiger. Already threatened and confined to increasingly restricted spaces, they sometimes stray into human settlements in the borders of forest areas. Tigers need large areas; 20 square kilometers for a tigress and 60-100 square kilometers for a male tiger.  Increasing tiger population, mind you, not in millions like us humans but hundreds, mean less space for them in their already shrinking habitats. If we invade their privacy, we are forcing them to change their behavior. A man-eater is created in our minds even if it is only a mauling. We would still blame the tiger and not the stimulus that created a man killer.

For God's sake let them live peacefully in their little pockets of peace. Refrain from such acts of foolishness Mr. M R, or anyone else. This is an appeal for the tiger and all other creatures that live in India's forests. Let them be. We humans are over-populating the planet so quickly that the day is not far off when we'll either have to colonize neighbouring planets or kill each other for space! Let these beautiful creatures, untainted by human traits or vices live peacefully in their little confines. I hope there will be some responsible people from the Forest Departments who will read this and ensure that such incidents do not happen in future.

UPDATE: 31st, May 2015, 6.30 PM

It seems that this issue is more murkier that what I thought! Apparently, as is evident from many of the Facebook, entries on Mr. M R's wall, this was part of a grandiose plan. He keeps referring to a 'project' that would keep him busy for a few weeks. It seems he was part of a group of photographers sub-contracted to scour the forests of Kerala on foot to gather photographic footage for a COFFEE TABLE BOOK to be released by a rather famous, or should I say infamous now, self-proclaimed 'Independent Conservation & Travel Photographer' who is Kerala Forest Department's current favourite. More details will follow as I gather them. Watch this space..........

The Aftermath of an Elephant Attack - Part 2: Guidelines for Trekkers

See previous post here

If you are an avid trekker there is no better way to experience the beauty of the forest than on foot. You are literally hugging the earth while you walk the trails. The sights and smells of the forest are felt more intimately while walking than when rattling along on a safari vehicle. Many wildlife sanctuaries in Kerala including the Periyar tiger reserve and Parambikulam tiger reserve offer trekking packages. If you are a regular trekker you will know most of the rules but if you are just another tourist who stopped by after seeing the board offering trekking into forests, read the following

Before embarking on a trek

1. Research the place you plan to visit. The internet offers you a lot of information and it is always good to be prepared. 
• Look up timings, distances and the difficulty gradings. 
• Check the terrain and type of forest you will be trekking in.
• Check the weather and take clothing accordingly.
• Check facilities available (food, accommodation, sleeping arrangements etc)
2. Always plan to reach the trekking point on time, especially if it is only a day trip.
3. If you are older and not used to strenuous treks get yourself checked by your physician before starting on the trip.
4. Inform some responsible person where you are going and leave the details of your proposed trip with them.
5. Carry all medicines that you take usually. 
6. Get a pair of comfortable footwear suited for the season and terrain. Street footwear will hinder you. It has been suggested that you get a pair of shoes that is half size bigger than your normal size since feet can swell up during long hot treks.
7. Try to organize a group of 5-10 individuals. In case of an emergency some of the group can stay back while others can go for help.

Most often the organized trekking in wildlife sanctuaries are under the guidance of the local Eco Development Committees (EDC). They allot one or more guides for a group. These guides know the trekking areas and the local wildlife behaviour better than anyone else. Always give respect to their instructions and DO NOT ever transgress them. The Gavi incidence is a direct result of ignoring the guide's instruction.

Once you have reached your destination and your trek gets under way, there are the general trekking guidelines you have to follow.

1. An ideal trekking group should be not more than 10 in a group. 
2. Don't stray from the group at any time. If you want to answer nature's call make sure the group knows and that you don't stray too far from the track.
   
3. Stick to the trail. Don't go wandering off if you see another track that looks more adventurous. You might get lost and also destroy some part of the forest, it's plants or small creatures when you go stomping off from the main track.
   
4. Carry sufficient water and food but don't overburden yourself. High energy chocolate bars and bananas are ideal. Use a canteen for water that you can refill in clean streams or springs.
   
5. Don't litter. Carry back your waste and leave only your footprints.
6. Don't smoke and if you make a camp fire ensure it is stamped out completely.
7. Carry the tools you might need depending on the durartion of the trek.
• A torch, knife (Swiss army or any other), & whistle; just in case. I carry a Swiss knife, a hunting knife & cutlery kit.   
• Carry a handheld GPS or a map of the place you are planning to trek in. 
  
• A foldable shovel is useful in your pack if you plan camping. 
  
• A muli-utility whistle that has other bits & pieces usefulness like compass (always useful if your GPS batteries drain out), temperature gauge, signalling mirror or flash  LED and a lens for starting a fire in case you need a signal fire.
  
8. On a short trek the Swiss army knife and a whistle should be adequate for most circumstances.
   
9. Don't make noise. You are not attending a party. Silence allows you to listen to the sounds of the forest.
10. Don't expect to see wildlife at every turn. They see you though you don't. Most animals avoid human presence and lie low till you have passed.
11. Wear comfortable clothes and of colours that blend with the forest. Green, brown and khakis or camouflage patterns. 
12. Avoid perfumes and deodorants. The best perfume in a jungle is the smell of your sweat!
13. Appropriate footwear for the terrain. Preferably ankle high hiking boots. 
14. If you are queasy about leeches, wear gaiters or leech socks but remember there are no fool proof methods to avoid leech bites.In any case their bite is harmless. It might leave you with an ooze and an itch.
15. Don't handle animals, reptiles, amphibians and insects especially those that you are unfamiliar with. 
    
16. Don't try to get close to large mammals especially elephants. Keep a safe distance even if you want to just take a picture.
17. Avoid flash photography in the presence of large mammals. They may be scared off or react in annoyance.   
18. Do not carry back 'souveniers'. The only thing you should carry back is memories and photographs.
19. Do not vandalize or destroy forest department property including boards, fences and boundary markers. 
20. Mobile phones maybe of use in places where there is a network but put it in silent mode.

These are some of the things that come to mind as I type. Other experienced trekkers may have more to add. Please add it in the Comments.

I hope this will give you an insight into how to become a woodcrawler. The next post is about the elephants; the reason why this series was started in the first place.

The Aftermath of an Elephant Attack - Part 1 : Behaviour Guidelines for the Wilderness visitors

On 21st January the unthinkable happened in Gavi. Two over enthusiastic tourists fell victim to the anger of an upset herd of elephants!

(Pinks are Links, Click to open a related page)

Before I go further watch this video shot by a set of foolhardy young men exhibiting their testosterone levels! Then, watch this man do something very incredible, though I personally wouldn't recommend this strategy unless you have a large insurance and a high threshold for pain in the event the elephant really decided to take you to the cleaners!

While it is easy to pin the blame on the elephant for the Gavi tragedy, it will be better to introspect first. Forests are shrinking by the hour and there is no space for the wildlife. If the recent tiger census figures are to be believed we'll soon be encountering them in our backyards too.

Who is to blame for this? Unscrupulous developers, greedy politicians, timber mafia, poachers, the tourism industry or toothless government policies? It is hard to pin the blame on a particular group but every one has contribution to make when an incident like this happens.

Gavi is a hidden gem. Mind you, I've never been there yet and looks like I might not make if the forest department decides to enforce restrictions. Gavi made it into public view in Kerala after a Malayalam movie was shot in that area. The movie was a hit and public wanted access. The government decided to promote it like any other tourist spot. I've never been there yet so I'm not qualified to comment on the current scenario but I'm sure it is vastly different from what it was a few years ago.

I'll leave my comment on Gavi and proceed to what I really want to say. How to behave in a wilderness area so you will be safe and the wildlife too. I have been holidaying almost exclusively in such places for more than a decade. Not for me are the concrete jungles and the colourful, vibrant malls. My colours are very restricted. They are confined to a many shades of green and few shades of brown and khaki. Where else but in a forest can I find these colours? As for why I prefer the jungles, ask me if you are interested. The purpose of this post is to help you avoid an unhappy or fatal encounter.

Wilderness tourism or eco-tourism as it is euphemistically called is now, is being promoted as an alternative to regular tourist circuits. During peak holiday season tourist hot spots overflow but since most wild life sanctuaries and national parks have restrictions on the number of visitors and timings for visits you have a more relaxed holiday! However, if you really want to enjoy such places there are a lot of things to keep in mind.

Driving inside a wildlife sanctuary
The unfortunate thing about progress is that our forest have shrunk so drastically. The last of these islands of wilderness struggle to cope with encroachment from all sides. They are, in some places, criss-crossed by highways connecting important towns. During the holidays and weekends traffic flow through these highways are extraordinarily heavy. There are some rules to be followed when you drive through forest areas.

1. Restrict you speed to 40 kmph or less. Enjoy the drive and ensure you are not responsible for a roadkill due to reckless driving.
2. Don't honk unnecessarily and try to overtake the vehicle ahead. 
3. Don't play loud music. Enjoy the sounds of the forest.
4. Don't drink and drive. Your reflexes are slowed and judgement is poor.
5. Don't stop and get out of your vehicle in a wildlife area. You are endangering yourself. 
6. Don't feed wild animals especially the monkeys and deer. They are prone to get bolder and may eventually end up under a vehicles tyres in their excitement.
7. Don't throw litter, especially plastic waste. A banana or orange peel will degrade but plastic will degrade the environment. 
8. DO NOT SMOKE. A carelessly thrown cigarette butt can start a forest fire that can destroy a whole forest.
9. Don't stop for picnics or to answer nature's calls. There are designated areas near the park reception centers for eating food, disposing waste and toilet facilities. 
10. Adhere to timings and don't argue at the check post. Many wild life sanctuaries restrict vehicle movement from dusk to dawn. Respect the rules and the right of the animals.

The following photos are mostly from Bandipur taken during holiday seasons. We Indians love to break rules and sadly, we do it with impunity. When someone stops to tell you what is right and what is wrong we ignore them or abuse them. Judge for your self.

Don't encourage animals to take feed from you...........

.....or they might just end up under the next speeding vehicle!

Forests are not studios...

.....nor are they a place to play hero!

They certainly aren't public toilets!

Who is more uncivilized, the forest beings or idiots like this?!

If you are wonder what wild creature they are photographing, just look at the above photo! That is the 'animal'!

Suddenly everyone spots this 'wildlife' after me.....................!!

More wild creatures, in Mudumalai

Picnic in a forest in unsafe and downright foolish!

Accommodation & Food
Most wild life sanctuaries have limited accommodation within the forest. They are mostly operated by the Government departments like Forest & Wildlife, Electricity boards, Irrigation departments and such. Accommodation is basic, with absolutely no luxuries including television, intercom, mobile networks and even sometimes no electricity, So if you are used to such luxuries, it is best to avoid such places. You may not get running water or even hot water for bathing.

Food is always simple fare that can be cooked easily. You have NO CHOICE. Some places expect you to carry your own provisions while the caretaker doubles up as cook. In any case, it is usually vegetarian fare that can be put together in a jiffy.

Of course if you stay in a luxury resort that is located outside the park boundaries things maybe a little different. They might provide more than just luxuries including Ayurvedic massage in case you are bored counting trees and plants!

Vehicle safaris into the forest
Once you are inside the forest keep in mind that you are entering the home of the denizens of the jungles. I refuse to call them 'wild animals' because I have felt that we humans are more wilder on many occasions. These creatures behave in a very civilized manner according to their species' hierarchy. Remember, these creatures are not out to get you, but when provoked, they might just decide to show you who is the boss!

Most sanctuaries have restrictions on the number of vehicles and timings of safaris. There are places where these safaris are conducted in forest department vehicles but in other places private vehicles are allowed with guide deputed by the authorities. The forest gates open early morning and close by around 9.00 AM. They reopen at 3.30 PM and close for the day at sunset. Which means we have permission to wander around for some 6 hours. The other 18 hours belong to the rightful owners of the forests.

When going on a safari or driving in a forest keep these points in mind.

1. Your naturalist, safari driver or guide is the person in charge. Listen to them always. 
2. Do not make noise during the trips. Small children are best left at home.
3. Wear earthly colours. Greens, browns, greys or darker colours. 
4. Don't make sudden movement and pop up like a jack-in-the-box at the sight of an animal.
5. Don't open the door or get off the vehicles. Animals rarely attack vehicles. 
6. Don't throw litter in the forest.You are endangering the animals.
7. Food and water will not be available in the forest. Carry adequate supplies but don't throw empty wrappers and bottles in the forest. 
8. When you see an animal or bird don't make noise or try to attract it's attention. 
9. Use your camera by all means but avoid flash photography. It irritates some animals.
10. Do NOT smoke. A carelessly thrown cigarette can destroy a whole ecosystem.

Sometimes there might be a small crisis....

.....but stay inside the vehicle at all times, unless instructed to get out.

Keep your hand inside or you might find it a costly loss!

This post is mainly for those of you who drive or get driven into forest areas. If you really want to experience the beauty of the wilderness, my suggestion is to exercise your feet. I mean, get off the vehicle and take a walk in the jungle. You can see from up close, the small things you'll miss while driving around. Having said that, I will also emphasize here that walking around wildlife sanctuaries is not something that you can do on a whim. There are rules to be followed and they vary according to the place you are visiting. Most wildlife sanctuaries and national parks that offer trekking packages put the details on their website. Wherever you chose to go, adhere to the basic guidelines for trekking. That will follow in my next post.