Ladakh & Life Lessons - Part 10: Maitreya and Milky Way

 18th July 2023, Afternoon and Night

Khalsar - Diskit - Hunder - Terith

After the early lunch, our plan was to go to Diskit and Hunder, in the Nubra valley. We'd have to  backtrack towards Khalsar, cross the Shyok onto the road to Sumur and Siachen glacier, to reach Terith where our resort was. We were on our way to Diskit a little after 1.15 pm. The sun was beating down so mercilessly that it was hard to imagine that we were in a valley between the Himalayas and the Karakoram ranges. These are the two highest mountain ranges in the world but at that moment we felt like we were in Thar desert!

While this area with popular tourist spots is called the Nubra Valley, it is actually the Shyok valley. The river that runs south of Karakoram range is actually the Shyok, which eventually merges with the Indus in Pakistan near Skardu. The Nubra river itself flows south east through the valley and flows into the Shyok near Diskit. (Red arrow)

The road to Diskit and Hunder was being widened and repaired, as was the road from Khalsar to Pangong Tso. We made slow progress as we were occasionally forced to halt in the interest of safety, while the mountain sides were being ripped apart by earth moving equipment. The traffic build-up that was a consequence of this halt-and-go process ensured that looking at our watches was a futile exercise!

While doing my research for Ladakh, as I mentioned in my last post, I had been drawn towards a face. The face of Maitreya Buddha. He sits tall, below the Diskit Gompa, looking across the Shyok river and the mighty Karakoram mountains. I don't know what the magnetism it was, but though I hadn't been keen on exploring the monasteries in detail, Diskit was an exception. I had made a mental note to spend a few extra minutes here. 

We drove to the monastery first but the heat, with the very uncomfortable thermal wear inside, was unbearable. We were planning to check in at our resort only after going to the famous sand dunes of Hunder so getting out of the thermals was still a couple of hours away. We were hoping it would become colder as the sun disappeared behind the mountains on the west. So we abandoned the idea of a detailed exploration of the monastery and decided to go up to the Maitreya watching over the Shyok valley. 

The colossal statue of the Maitreya Buddha, 106 feet tall, can be seen from the monastery and is on a hillock across a small stream. Unfortunately, though the road goes to the base of the statue, vehicles were not permitted to go up when we went there. I wasn't about to allow the heat to stop me so I decided to walk it up. Maitreya had that effect on me. I had been reluctant to climb places that seemed to leave me breathless but it seemed that I was energised in his presence. 

A few minutes, sitting in contemplation before the serene Maitreya and I knew what I had to do with the rest of my life. I would have sat longer because I couldn't feel the heat any more but there were three people sitting in a baking car. So after a whispered prayer and a promise to be back, I walked back, spinning the many prayer drums as I descended. Something in me had clicked into place. I don't know what, but I felt that life was about to change sooner than later. 

We proceeded to the famous Hunder dunes hoping to see the double humped Bactrian camels. Sadly, the heat had got to them too. They weren't to be seen anywhere and the owner of a mobile food cart told us that they'd appear only after the sun went down. It was exhausting and the dunes weren't looking very inviting in the heat. Most of the wavy sand had been disturbed by the camels and tourists who had been there earlier. It didn't seem worthwhile to wait for a few hours till the camels appeared. 

For those staying in Diskit or Hunder, if you have the time, a two and a half hour (maybe more) drive will take you to Turtuk village, close to the line of control (LOC), on the border with Pakistan. Its fame is not only because it is the northernmost village on the Indian side of the LOC, but also because it is the largest producer of apricots in Ladakh.. Though many say it is a part of Pakistan, it was actually occupied by Pakistan after the 1948 Indo-Pak war, and later was wrested back from Pakistan by India in the 1971 war. Our itinerary didn't include Turtuk because of the limited number of days we had at our disposal. If you are intending to do everything possible around Diskit you might want to consider staying in Diskit / Hunder or even Turtuk for two nights. If you stay more than two days you can explore both sides of the Shyok, including Siachen. (More about Turtuk here)

All along the route there were talks of declining tourist footfall into Ladakh. The road access from Manali side was cut off due to floods, landslides and missing sections of the highway. Our trip itself was postponed by a fortnight and the weather in mid-July had us worried. There was talk about having to start the morning drive earlier than usual as the fast melting snow would flood the rivers by mid-day. In places where the rivers had to be crossed, the rising water could possibly block the already non-existent roads and tracks. 

The Milky Way was next on the priority list so we decided to go to the resort and check in. It had been a long warm day. and a little rest was welcome. At the Osay Khar resort we discovered that we were one of two families that had checked in. It was looking deserted. Terith, as I mentioned was on the opposite side of Diskit, across the Shyok. There was nothing else to do or see around the place. Siachen was too far for an evening drive. This property is on a private farm and has some 20 cottages, of which only two had occupants. It is totally cut off from civilization and meant for people who want some peace and quiet. The ATV rides, camel rides, go karting and zip line for the normal tourist is not on the road to Terith. So if you are that type of tourist better look for accommodation on the Khalsar - Hunder road, in or around Diskit.

Over a cup of tea and fresh pakoras, the manager told us about the resort and afterwards took us around. He, himself was from Himachal and was worried about his home and family there. During winter, when the resort closes for the season he returns to tend to his farm there. One of the reasons that Ladakh attracted me, besides Maitreya, were the birds. I could add so many new species to my life list, and Osay Khar was a good spot. Unfortunately we checked in in the evening and would be leaving by 6.30 am to avoid getting held up by a swollen Shyok. Birding in that area would have to wait for my next trip.

Dinner was served at 8, and having eaten, we went back to our cottage to set up for the Milky way. Fortunately, we wouldn't have to suffer light pollution. With only two cottages occupied the glare of artificial light interfering with our photography plans were reduced. Our postponed trip also turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The original dates for our trip fell during the week with a full moon day. A full moon would have spoilt our plans with its bright light. Our trip fell on a weekend when it was time for the new moon! We only had to worry about the clouds as the threat of rain still loomed. By the time the Milky Way made its spectacular display at half past 9, we were ready for it.

Of the top 10 locations in India to shoot the Milky Way in India, three are in Ladakh. Nubra Valley, where we were; Pangong Tso, to where we were going the next day and Hanle Dark Sky Reserve in the eastern side of Ladakh. We would miss the third location on this trip but that has been added to our bucket list! If you are keen on astrophotography yourself, plan your trip to coincide with the new moon day of that month.

The Milky Way was the icing on the cake for us. We had a long drive ahead of us the next day as the regular route to Pangong Tso was closed for widening. We'd be driving through the Shyok river bed for most of the route and didn't want to get caught in a flood. So we decided to pack up for the night and hit the bed. 

See you on the road to Pangong Tso!

Link to the previous post is here

Ladakh & Life Lessons - Part 7: Getting ready for an Adventure

This is a 'buffer post', if I can call it that. I don't claim to be an expert on Ladakh because I spent only a week there, but I have learnt from this brief experience how any future trip can be made better. So, I thought it is good idea to make a post that will help those with a desire to travel to Ladakh because the posts to follow this one will lay bare some of the most beautiful and popular places in Ladakh. That will be a magnet to pull you to this fascinating place. If after reading this series of blogs and suddenly, on a whim, you decide to pack your bags for Ladakh; hold your horses. Ladakh is not for everybody. If you are the run-of-the-mill tourist, I won't discourage you but would rather, encourage you to go with a very open mind. If you go unprepared, it will turn out to be a trip to regret. Here's why.

1. The Geography

If you weren't very attentive in your school geography classes, let me brush up your memories. The mighty Himalayas is that crescent shaped range of mountains that separate the Indian subcontinent from Tibet. It is actually three ranges running from west to east for 2400 kilometres. The Outer Himalayas or the Siwaliks, is the southern range that  has an average elevation of 900-1200 metres. The Lesser Himalayas in the middle with an average elevation of 3700 - 4500 metres and the Great Himalayas, the northern range, with an average elevation that exceeds 6000 metres. Himalayas are still actively 'growing' as the mountain building process is not halted.

The effect of this high barrier is that the cold winds from the north are not allowed to enter the Indian sub-continent and also prevent the monsoon clouds from going northwards. The clouds shed their moisture south of the Himalayas and the areas north of the ranges fall in the rain shadow area. That is why Ladakh is an arid cold desert. Ladakh itself is wedged between the Great Himalayas and the Karakorum range in the north.

2. Weather

Since Ladakh is north of the Great Himalayas, it sits at the south western edge of the Tibet Plateau, and thus shares most geographic features of Tibet. The landscape is predominantly, barren mountains with little green cover except along the banks of the rivers. Water levels of these rivers and other water bodies depend on the melt water from the snow capped mountains and the sporadic rainfall. It is a high altitude desert with extreme weather. Though temperatures in summer hover around the 20 degree mark,  it feels like it is around 35 to 40 degrees. In many part of Ladakh the night temperatures can plummet to sub-zero levels even in summers. In winter, it is usually covered in snow and access by road is severely affected. 

The peak tourist season is around July - August, starting in mid-April and going on to the end of September. Weather in Ladakh doesn't play by the book and in the last few years cloudbursts, floods and landslides have become a regular problem. It would be prudent to keep tabs on the weather conditions in Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh also, especially if you are planning a road trip.

3. Access to Ladakh

Ladakh is not the most accessible places. Unlike the normal trips you plan, where you book yourself into a hotel, throw a couple of jeans and few tee shirts into a bag, check your papers are in order and take off; Ladakh is very different. The only way you can get to Leh is by air or by road. There is no rail connection to Ladakh. The nearest major station is Jammu Tawi some 700 kilometers away.

Flights are more frequent in peak season but reduce in number in winter, with chances of flights getting cancelled due to bad weather, not only in Leh but also in places where flights originate. Delhi is more notorious due to foggy conditions of winter. Flying in gets you to Ladakh faster but you have no choice but to hang around in Leh for a couple of day, to acclimatise to the altitude. See if you can get a flight to Delhi that reaches around midnight so that you can catch the first flight out to Leh after 6.00 in the morning. That way you save an unnecessary stay-over in Delhi.

The other option is traveling by road either from Srinagar to Leh (J&K side) or from Manali - Leh (HP side). Both roads are over 400 kilometers and have to be done over two days. One reason is that when you are climbing a few thousand feet in elevation, it helps your body to acclimatise gradually. The other is that you will be definitely stopping along the way to take pictures of the spectacular landscape you are travelling through. Both these roads are closed for six months or more in winter due to snowfall. Sometimes, even longer. 

There are blogs or travel sites that give more details, one of them is here.

4. Accomodation

There are only two major towns in Ladakh. The capital, Leh and Kargil. Most available hotels are in and around these two towns. Since our trip didn't include Kargil, I have no information to offer. Leh has a variety of options from simple home stays to five star hotels. If you book through travel websites the costs are definitely higher. If you can connect with a local tour operator directly things really become easy. For one thing, they will arrange accommodation, not only in Leh but in all the other places you plan to visit. Remember, once you are on the road to the next destination, returning is not an option. Most places will take half a day to reach even in good weather. 

Local tour operators also will be able to fix up an itinerary to suit your tastes. The other thing is that they prefer cash so you also have the benefit of avoiding excess tax on your bills. As you go further away from Leh, to the popular places on the tourist circuits, the most commonly available accommodation option are the tents. In Diskit and Hunder, there are resorts with solid buildings but in locations like Pangong, Tso Moriri, Tso Kar and other remote places there are also, wooden cottages but very rarely proper building. Staying in the tents are supposed to be an an experience by itself if you can tolerate the sub-zero night temperatures. 

5. Permits

Earlier, when Ladakh was a part of Kashmir you had to get, what is called, the Inner Line Permit especially when travelling to sensitive areas. As of 2023 it is not required for domestic tourists but you still have to pay an environmental fee, wildlife fee (both compulsory) and Red Cross fund (optional). This can be paid online (Leh Permit Website) and the receipt printed out. You have to carry it with you along with a valid government issued ID. This receipt has to be shown at designated check points on your drive to the various destinations. 

6. Cash, Cards and Digital Payments

Ladakh, as I mentioned earlier, has only two towns. Your credit and debit cards or digital payment apps will work in these places and places on the outskirts where network won't be an issue. As you go further away the mobile networks disappear altogether and payments with such instruments will not be accepted and won't work. You will have to carry cash on you, either when leaving home or get it from the ATMs in Leh or Kargil. Please remember, these ATMs can run out of cash very quickly and there is a limit to how much can be drawn. A typical one week itinerary will cost between 40,000 to 70,000 per person, depending on the number of people in your group, type of accommodation, mode of travel and the food. Taxi charges are on the higher side and bulk of your expense is for that. Expenses go down if the group is larger. (Travel expenses in Ladakh)

7. Communication and Networks. 

Without doubt, the most important thing that will be on every traveller's mind, other than expenses,  will be communication. It is especially important especially in a place like Ladakh. Here are a few important things to keep in mind. 

• Pre-paid cards from outside the union territory don't work in Ladakh (or Kashmir). Only your post-paid connection will work provided your operator has a network here. I also learnt a lesson that pre-paid connections that get converted to post-paid, online, also don't work! You have to have a genuine post-paid connection.
• The widest network is BSNL, followed by Jio and Airtel. Jio seems to be the fastest improving network in Ladakh. Vodafone - Idea and others are at best erratic. My Vodafone would connect whenever it fancied and that too only within the limits of Leh town. 
• Wi-fi is provided by hotels even outside Leh, wherever network is available, but be warned that it is notoriously slow except in Leh. 
• You can buy a local pre-paid card with a government issued ID card. They say it is easier if you have a local contact but the mobile stores are very happy to give you one using their ID for address proof! Get a BSNL or Jio as they have better coverage outside Leh, especially the former. 

More about networks here. (Mobile Networks in Ladakh)

8. For the Foodies

For those who love exploring local food, Ladakh has some unique cuisine that has its roots in Tibet. There is not much in terms of variety but it is worth trying out. There are plenty of restaurants in Leh that serve local cuisine but if your hotel package includes food you might miss this, so see if you want to save money eating in your hotel or spend a little extra on food. The two days you spend acclimatising in Leh can be put to good use for fooding. 

There are a few popular dishes of which Momos are a very familiar one, being served in most restaurants that serve oriental cuisine all over the country. It is the stuffing that matters. You can get momos stuffed with meat or vegetables and also yak cheese. The best part of the momos here is that it tastes a little different in different places. That is probably because the stuffings and spices are different.

Two type of noodles based dishes are the Thukpa and Thenthuk, a variant of the former. They are both soupy noodles and in thukpa, the spicy base soup is meat or vegetable, into which noodles, tomatoes, onion, garlic and seasonal vegetables are added. The thenthuk is a 'hand-pulled' wheat noodle soup, where the dough is kneaded, flatted, pulled and cut into strips that are dropped directly into the boiling soup. 

These are the ones that we tried but there are many others like the Khambir, a wheat based leavened bread somewhat like the roti or kulcha. Then there is the Tingmo, a bun like steamed bread. The Skyu is another soup based dish with balls of wheat or barley dough. Yak cheese or Churrpi is made from Yak milk and is added to a variety of food in Ladakh, including butter tea. 

Two traditional beverages we tried was Butter tea or Gur-gur chai, which is a pink coloured tea. It is brewed by boiling tea leaves and then adding milk, yak butter and salt. The colour is due to the pink Himalayan salt. Kahwah, of Afghani origin, is green tea infused with saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and crushed almonds. It is sweetened with honey. You have to develop a taste for Butter tea but Kahwah is instantly likable.

If you are not very adventurous, there are plenty of restaurants to choose from with cuisine from all over the world. You get, besides the regular North Indian, Chinese and Tibetan restaurants; Thai, Lebanese, Italian, and even a couple of South Indian restaurants!

The problem comes when you move out of Leh. You will find dhaba style restaurants in every village along all the roads. Unfortunately, the menu is limited because of difficulty in procuring fresh vegetables or meat. You will have to adjust with bread and eggs, noodles, aloo parathas, rice and dal or rajma. Of course momos and thukpa is always there.  So if you are fussy about food you might find it a little difficult to survive. 

While travelling out of Leh, load up on water, fruits, biscuits, bread, dry fruits, nuts and energy bars. If you get stuck on the road due to landslide or flood, it will be difficult to move for quite a while; sometimes hours to more than a day; so having food and water in the car will come in handy. 

9. Electricity 

In Leh, you can expect round the clock electricity but as you move out to the remote tourist spots, there are no electric lines or have been washed off in floods or landslides. Most places are dependent on solar power or generators, which will be available only for a designated period. Therefore, if you are a gearhead with the habit of carrying tons of gear, make sure you have extra batteries (for camera), power banks, and a power strip. Most resorts won't have enough plug points for charging all your stuff, especially tents and cabins, and you will have a small window within which you have to charge everything. In such a situation a powerstrip with at least four sockets can be handy. In any case, you won't need to charge your phones as there will hardly be any network access, so you can keep it switched off most of the time.

These are a few brief pointers for anyone planning a trip to Ladakh. There are plenty of sites where you can get more information. Some of those sites can be accessed through links I've placed in my blog. 

I will be updating this post as I get more information and as I progress with the rest of the blog series. So keep coming back to this page. 

(Updated 22/09/2023 at 7.30 PM)