Ladakh & Life Lessons - Part 10: Maitreya and Milky Way

 18th July 2023, Afternoon and Night

Khalsar - Diskit - Hunder - Terith

After the early lunch, our plan was to go to Diskit and Hunder, in the Nubra valley. We'd have to  backtrack towards Khalsar, cross the Shyok onto the road to Sumur and Siachen glacier, to reach Terith where our resort was. We were on our way to Diskit a little after 1.15 pm. The sun was beating down so mercilessly that it was hard to imagine that we were in a valley between the Himalayas and the Karakoram ranges. These are the two highest mountain ranges in the world but at that moment we felt like we were in Thar desert!

While this area with popular tourist spots is called the Nubra Valley, it is actually the Shyok valley. The river that runs south of Karakoram range is actually the Shyok, which eventually merges with the Indus in Pakistan near Skardu. The Nubra river itself flows south east through the valley and flows into the Shyok near Diskit. (Red arrow)

The road to Diskit and Hunder was being widened and repaired, as was the road from Khalsar to Pangong Tso. We made slow progress as we were occasionally forced to halt in the interest of safety, while the mountain sides were being ripped apart by earth moving equipment. The traffic build-up that was a consequence of this halt-and-go process ensured that looking at our watches was a futile exercise!

While doing my research for Ladakh, as I mentioned in my last post, I had been drawn towards a face. The face of Maitreya Buddha. He sits tall, below the Diskit Gompa, looking across the Shyok river and the mighty Karakoram mountains. I don't know what the magnetism it was, but though I hadn't been keen on exploring the monasteries in detail, Diskit was an exception. I had made a mental note to spend a few extra minutes here. 

We drove to the monastery first but the heat, with the very uncomfortable thermal wear inside, was unbearable. We were planning to check in at our resort only after going to the famous sand dunes of Hunder so getting out of the thermals was still a couple of hours away. We were hoping it would become colder as the sun disappeared behind the mountains on the west. So we abandoned the idea of a detailed exploration of the monastery and decided to go up to the Maitreya watching over the Shyok valley. 

The colossal statue of the Maitreya Buddha, 106 feet tall, can be seen from the monastery and is on a hillock across a small stream. Unfortunately, though the road goes to the base of the statue, vehicles were not permitted to go up when we went there. I wasn't about to allow the heat to stop me so I decided to walk it up. Maitreya had that effect on me. I had been reluctant to climb places that seemed to leave me breathless but it seemed that I was energised in his presence. 

A few minutes, sitting in contemplation before the serene Maitreya and I knew what I had to do with the rest of my life. I would have sat longer because I couldn't feel the heat any more but there were three people sitting in a baking car. So after a whispered prayer and a promise to be back, I walked back, spinning the many prayer drums as I descended. Something in me had clicked into place. I don't know what, but I felt that life was about to change sooner than later. 

We proceeded to the famous Hunder dunes hoping to see the double humped Bactrian camels. Sadly, the heat had got to them too. They weren't to be seen anywhere and the owner of a mobile food cart told us that they'd appear only after the sun went down. It was exhausting and the dunes weren't looking very inviting in the heat. Most of the wavy sand had been disturbed by the camels and tourists who had been there earlier. It didn't seem worthwhile to wait for a few hours till the camels appeared. 

For those staying in Diskit or Hunder, if you have the time, a two and a half hour (maybe more) drive will take you to Turtuk village, close to the line of control (LOC), on the border with Pakistan. Its fame is not only because it is the northernmost village on the Indian side of the LOC, but also because it is the largest producer of apricots in Ladakh.. Though many say it is a part of Pakistan, it was actually occupied by Pakistan after the 1948 Indo-Pak war, and later was wrested back from Pakistan by India in the 1971 war. Our itinerary didn't include Turtuk because of the limited number of days we had at our disposal. If you are intending to do everything possible around Diskit you might want to consider staying in Diskit / Hunder or even Turtuk for two nights. If you stay more than two days you can explore both sides of the Shyok, including Siachen. (More about Turtuk here)

All along the route there were talks of declining tourist footfall into Ladakh. The road access from Manali side was cut off due to floods, landslides and missing sections of the highway. Our trip itself was postponed by a fortnight and the weather in mid-July had us worried. There was talk about having to start the morning drive earlier than usual as the fast melting snow would flood the rivers by mid-day. In places where the rivers had to be crossed, the rising water could possibly block the already non-existent roads and tracks. 

The Milky Way was next on the priority list so we decided to go to the resort and check in. It had been a long warm day. and a little rest was welcome. At the Osay Khar resort we discovered that we were one of two families that had checked in. It was looking deserted. Terith, as I mentioned was on the opposite side of Diskit, across the Shyok. There was nothing else to do or see around the place. Siachen was too far for an evening drive. This property is on a private farm and has some 20 cottages, of which only two had occupants. It is totally cut off from civilization and meant for people who want some peace and quiet. The ATV rides, camel rides, go karting and zip line for the normal tourist is not on the road to Terith. So if you are that type of tourist better look for accommodation on the Khalsar - Hunder road, in or around Diskit.

Over a cup of tea and fresh pakoras, the manager told us about the resort and afterwards took us around. He, himself was from Himachal and was worried about his home and family there. During winter, when the resort closes for the season he returns to tend to his farm there. One of the reasons that Ladakh attracted me, besides Maitreya, were the birds. I could add so many new species to my life list, and Osay Khar was a good spot. Unfortunately we checked in in the evening and would be leaving by 6.30 am to avoid getting held up by a swollen Shyok. Birding in that area would have to wait for my next trip.

Dinner was served at 8, and having eaten, we went back to our cottage to set up for the Milky way. Fortunately, we wouldn't have to suffer light pollution. With only two cottages occupied the glare of artificial light interfering with our photography plans were reduced. Our postponed trip also turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The original dates for our trip fell during the week with a full moon day. A full moon would have spoilt our plans with its bright light. Our trip fell on a weekend when it was time for the new moon! We only had to worry about the clouds as the threat of rain still loomed. By the time the Milky Way made its spectacular display at half past 9, we were ready for it.

Of the top 10 locations in India to shoot the Milky Way in India, three are in Ladakh. Nubra Valley, where we were; Pangong Tso, to where we were going the next day and Hanle Dark Sky Reserve in the eastern side of Ladakh. We would miss the third location on this trip but that has been added to our bucket list! If you are keen on astrophotography yourself, plan your trip to coincide with the new moon day of that month.

The Milky Way was the icing on the cake for us. We had a long drive ahead of us the next day as the regular route to Pangong Tso was closed for widening. We'd be driving through the Shyok river bed for most of the route and didn't want to get caught in a flood. So we decided to pack up for the night and hit the bed. 

See you on the road to Pangong Tso!

Link to the previous post is here

Ladakh & Life Lessons - Part 5: Of Piety or the Lack of it

17th July 2023, 9.30 AM - On the Srinagar-Leh Highway

Days begin early in the Himalayas. By 5.00 AM, dawn was breaking over the mountains across the Indus.

Since I had nothing better to do, I decided to laze around for another half hour. Tsewangji would come with the car only at 9.30 am so there was nothing else to do than just lie on the bed and contemplate on life. At half past five, I was getting a bit restless. I was getting bright outside though the skies weren't completely clear.

The sunlight, playing hide-and-seek with the clouds, would light up the mountain top for one moment, only to get blocked by the grey rain clouds immediately after. I hadn't slept well. I was expecting a cold night but I ended up kicking away the quilt and turning the fan in my direction! I wasn't feeling breathless either. It seemed, I was getting used to the weather very quickly. 

Used to getting up early, I decided that rolling around in bed wasn't serving any purpose. While researching Leh, I had a plan to do a spot of birding early in the morning but the congested part of the town didn't seem very ideal for a morning bird walk. Besides, the weather would keep the feathered chaps indoors anyway. So I stood at the window, watching the game, the clouds were playing with the sunlight, till it was time to go down for breakfast.

Tsewangji was right on time and as we left the hotel the skies were clearing and it was getting quite warm. For a typical tourist, the second day in Ladakh is also allocated for acclimatisation. That meant, we could explore places around Leh which were more or less at the same altitude. The travel agents have a set itinerary. You leave your hotel after breakfast and drive along the Leh - Kargil - Srinagar highway. The typical stops are at the Hall of Fame, Spituk Monastery, Indus view point(s), Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, Magnetic Hill and the Indus Sangam. 

The Hall of Fame, just outside the airport walls, about three kilometres outside Leh; is a war museum. It is built and maintained by the Indian Army, to honour those heroes who were martyred in the wars with Pakistan and China. You can take a guided tour with retired armed forces personnel giving you details of the exhibits and the wars that they are related to. There is also a light and sound show at 7.00 PM, but that is dependent on the weather. Ladakh being  the heart of 'disputed territory', you will see the presence of the brave men in uniform and their vehicles everywhere. Unfortunately, we had to skip it as it was not open on Mondays. 

Just after the walls of the airport end, is the turn off to the Spituk Gompa (Monastery). A 11th century monastery, built on a hillock overlooking the airport and Leh. 

Behind it, on the south, is the Indus river with a belt of green that contrasts with the hard baked brown earth that is seen all around. 

Since it was my first visit to a proper monastery, I was reluctant to explore the place. I wasn't sure if I could walk into any part of the monastery without permission. My camera was quite a handful, literally and it would be quite unwelcome. I decided that I would take in  the views instead. Spituk Gompa, in any case, offers a vantage point to see the airfield and the planes that land and take off. Even if you don't step into the temple, just being in the place gives a soothing feeling. 

The most exciting thing that happened was the IAF's Rafael. At first sight, it seemed to be headed straight for me but it was on some sort of a sortie over Leh. It disappeared towards the west without landing in the airfield.

After Spituk, as you drive further towards Kargil, the road follows the Indus. You can stop along the way for photo shoots. There are many army encampments along this road so be careful that you don't click photographs of sensitive areas. Further along the road is the Gurudwara Pathar Sahib. It is a place of worship for both Sikhs and Ladakhis. This place has a mythical story attached to it, linking the big rock (pathar) that is worshipped here and Guru Nanak. This is also built and run by the Indian army. We didn't stop there, as our plan wasn't inclined towards pilgrimages anyway. 

In any case, for the better or for the worse, my faith in the pantheon of Gods had eroded drastically because of my experiences in life over the last few years. Thought I don't claim to be an atheist, I have never been very pious at any time in my life.  Gods, all my life, have been friends to me. Not someone who you have to fear or respect but treat like any other buddy. It means, to me,  that we should not trouble them unnecessarily, asking for help by bribing them. No only that, while they didn't communicate with me about their needs, the intermediaries who spoke on their behalf; astrologers and priests, always put me off with their pompous attitudes and big demands on behalf of the Gods! I find their technique of making you do meaningless appeasement ceremonies very annoying and rarely take part enthusiastically.

My initial reluctance to travel to Ladakh was set aside for one other reason, the primary reason being the temptation to add a few 'lifers' to my birding list! As I was researching on Ladakh and its monasteries, another reason took root in my mind.  Buddhism and its uncomplicated way of looking at life, threw a spark inside me and suddenly I wanted to go. In fact, there were a few times that I even thought about getting 'lost' in Ladakh forever. I will elaborate in a later post about how my mind turned towards Buddha's teachings.

Having driven past the gurudwara, without stopping for blessings, we continued on to a place of mystery  further down the road, the Magnetic Hill (more about in the next post). I suspect that our driver, Tsewangji, being a pious man, wasn't very happy about our skipping that stop. On either side of the highway it was vast spaces of greyish brown crumbly earth. Loose rocks held together by something that like dust is the feature of this landscape. The colours were not exactly pleasing to the eye. Green was at a premium and found only on either side of the Indus and around human habitation. The predominant colour was brown; various shades of it, interspersed with grey and purple. In some places, little patches of green can be seen, but not grass or trees. Some sort of short shrubs with yellow or purple flowers.

It was getting very warm and we were soon throwing off our jackets and other warm clothing. It is a good place to mention a few points about the clothes you have to consider carrying. Ladakh is in the rain shadow region of the Himalayas but when it rains, it pours. Depending on the season your requirement of warm clothing will vary. When we went, it was summer but we were caught in the midst of a period of erratic weather. When it is sunny it is HOT, and very uncomfortably so. Your weather app will say it is between 18 - 20 degrees but it feels more like 35 and more. If you get in the shade or if it rains the temperature drops dramatically. You need to carry a set of layered clothing so that you can peel off layers if it gets warm and pull them on if it gets cold. Here is what you will require in summer. 

1. Innermost layer of warm thermals, especially for evening and nights.
2. Second layer of tee shirts or shirts according to your preference. Your trousers (no shorts) should also be able to keep you warm and try to carry quick drying ones in case you get caught in a sudden shower.  Cotton is the best choice of material but denim is not suggested as they dry very slowly.
3. Third layer of a warm fleece jacket or sweater. In fact you can carry one sleeveless and a full sleeve one to use depending on the weather condition. 
4. An outer padded shell jacket that should ideally be waterproof or at least water resistant. 
5. A pair of gloves and few pairs woolen socks will help your hands and feet keep warm.
6. For your head, you'll need a woolen beanie or balaclava for the cold nights and days and also a hat or cap to shade your eyes in the sunlight.
7. A good pair of sunglasses or photochromatic lenses if you wear prescription glasses, to protect against UV rays.

 More information is available on the internet and you may have to add or subtract to the list depending on the season and current weather conditions.

The next stop will be at the Magnetic Hill.......

The link to previous post is here